We move between the undulating slopes connecting Bishkek to Issyk Kul. Mountains pierce the darkening sky in the background – the sky was looking angry. Mother nature was at her best – wild, raw beauty surrounded us. A rough pick-up truck was edged to the side of the road. On the back seat perched a hooded Golden Eagle. Something wriggled on the floor in a white hessian sack. A rabbit? I thought. Who knew, but it was alive.
Golden Eagle hunting is a practice that has taken place for centuries across Central Asia amongst nomadic populations. A practice passed down from generation to generation and often a hot topic of culture vs controversy encompasses it.
Is this exploitation of a wild animal or is it an uneducated western mentality craving to understand a culture so foreign to our own?
Here before us in the pouring rain, was an eagle hunter and his young son in training. Each had an eagle weighing in at over 5kg perched on their arm. The talons clutching around the dried cow hide to protect the hunters forearms. Unlike falcons which are bred for hunting, acquiring a Golden Eagle is a skill that can only be taught and learned from the elders before you.
To intentionally hunt and capture an eagle for the sport of tourism in this taxing environment seems a bit rich. There is not enough tourism in the country to warrant such behaviour.
With a nomadic population scattered throughout folds of mountains and jumbles of hills, food is sparse and skill is necessary to survive. The climate is harsh and the landscape is unforgiving. The golden eagles are snatched from their nests as young chicks – it is only the females who hunt, males are released back into the wilderness.
One does not aspire to become an eagle hunter, you are simply born into it. It is a matter of survival for these Kyrgyzstani nomads. From the moment you are born, you are exposed to the world of hunting and training. Bonding and perfecting your relationship with your eagle. Their piercing eyes are protected by a small hood allowing their other senses to be enhanced. The eagle chirps to her hunter – she can smell our presence. He coo’s to her, gently stroking her feathers and whispering something in Russian to the bird. The bird falls silence. She seems to understand.
Here in Kyrgyzstan, it is not a challenge or status to be the best eagle hunter – it is all about survival and providing for your family. The eagle plays a vital role in this. Trained to hunt anything that moves, the eagle circles and swoops down, landing heavily on its prey, talons outstretched. Walking back and forth over the catch until it finds the head, the golden eagle holds it down until the hunter arrives on horseback with his dog in tow. The eagle does not kill or disembowel its catch. It simply catches it for its hunter. We witness this training technique in action.
The eagle who hunts with precision, is rewarded with a fresh pigeon for her efforts – I now know what was in the hessian bag. Feasting hungrily and with a detailed aggression, the eagle gnaws at the flesh.
I watch as the hunter gently strokes his eagle and in response, the eagle seems to nuzzle into the hunter. A connection that appears emotional, yet the hunter claims no emotional connection to the bird. I ask about her eventual release. After 15yrs of hunting, the eagles are prepared to return to the wild. This process takes several months to ensure that the eagle will not return to the hunter once she is released for the last time. I question if this is a sad moment between the pair feeling my eyes well as I question this final farewell. A confused no? comes back to me. This is nature. We have done our job together and now she must go and find a mate and live life in the wild. Culture is often so simple. It is our overstimulated mentality that confuses this into something it is not.
I think of my cat at home. Just because our culture emotionally connects to an animal, it does not mean all cultures are the same. When wildlife is simply a means of life or death in the world of survival, emotion has very little place. Everything and everyone has a role to play in the circle of life. It is simply that black and white.
Tourism and Eagles – Do they work together or against each other? There is a fine line between utilising culture and tradition as an economy and education. In a region where tourism is still at a minimum, these eagle hunters are proud to share their culture and their stories with us. They do not charge us to take photos with their eagles and their eagles are not forced to do anything that is not natural to them. As travellers, we are paying for an education in a culture that is foreign to us. We are providing a small economy to some of the most remote living people on the planet – many who still live a life of barter and trade. If it is done correctly and with fragility, it can be managed in a positive way. It is certainly a skill and experience that can easily be exploited, but exploitation comes the toxic combination of greedy tourists, narrow minded businesses and locals who are desperate. When crafted with the right ethos, intentions and benefit for all involved, it can be nothing but positive. Culture after all, is what keeps the world curious.
Want to experience the culture of the Golden Eagle? Join our Central Asia tours through Kyrgyzstan or our Golden Eagle Festival tour in Mongolia.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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