Most travellers pass through Ulaanbaatar quickly, eyes already on the steppe. That instinct is understandable. It also means missing a city that earns a closer look.
Soviet-era tower blocks stand alongside gilded monastery rooftops. A nomadic culture thousands of years old sits beside a capital modernising at visible speed. The contrasts are not incidental. They are the draw.
Two days here, well spent, changes how the rest of Mongolia reads.
Mongolia’s most significant active monastery sits at the city’s northwest edge. The centrepiece is the Migjid Janraisig statue, 26 metres tall, gilded, and rising through the interior of the main temple. It is among the largest indoor Buddhist statues in Asia.
Arrive between 9 and 10am for morning prayer. Walk the grounds clockwise, as tradition requires, and remove your hat before entering any temple. Photography restrictions apply inside some buildings.
This is where Mongolia’s long arc of history becomes legible. Exhibits move from prehistoric cultures through the Mongol Empire, the Qing period, and the Soviet era, with particular depth in nomadic life and traditional dress. Budget two to three hours. The costume and material culture displays rank among the strongest in the region.
The central square is flanked by Parliament House and a broad Chinggis Khaan monument. It functions as the city’s geographic and civic anchor. Start here to orient yourself before exploring on foot, and watch the steady flow of daily Ulaanbaatar life around its edges.
A Soviet-era war memorial on a hillside south of the city, the Zaisan rewards the climb less for the monument itself than for what surrounds it. The circular mosaic mural depicts Soviet-Mongolian friendship in vivid propaganda style, a document of a specific political moment frozen in tile. From the top, the city spreads across the valley floor and the mountains frame the far horizon.
The name is informal. The market is sprawling. The range runs from fine cashmere to horse tack to electronics. An hour here gives a sense of commerce that no hotel lobby can. Keep valuables close and attention wide.
Mongolia has produced some of the most significant palaeontological finds in the world, and original fossil specimens are displayed here, not replicas. For travellers with a genuine interest in natural history, or with children in tow, it rewards two to three hours.
Fifty-four kilometres east of the city, this 40-metre stainless steel statue of Chinggis Khaan on horseback is the largest equestrian statue in the world. The scale registers in person in a way photographs do not quite convey. A lift runs up into the horse’s head, opening onto an unobstructed view across surrounding grassland.
A half-day is enough. It fits well as a morning excursion before an afternoon flight, or as an early introduction to the wider landscape before heading deeper into the country.
When planning a visit to Ulaanbaatar, getting around is straightforward. Taxis are inexpensive and widely available, although it is advisable to either agree on the fare before your journey or use a metered taxi or reputable ride-hailing app. Visitors travelling during the winter months should be aware that air pollution can be significant, particularly due to coal heating in the city’s ger districts. For the cleanest air and the most comfortable conditions, May to September is the best time to visit, offering pleasant weather for sightseeing and outdoor activities. Travellers hoping to experience the famous Naadam Festival should plan for July, but accommodation and event tickets sell out quickly, so booking well in advance is essential. The local currency is the Mongolian Tugrik (MNT), and while credit cards are accepted at many hotels, restaurants and larger businesses, carrying some cash is recommended. ATMs are readily available throughout central Ulaanbaatar, making it easy to withdraw local currency during your stay.
If you are planning a trip to Mongolia, Crooked Compass shows what a considered itinerary looks like.
Two days is a reasonable allocation. That covers the main monasteries and museums comfortably, with time for a half-day excursion to the Chinggis Khaan Statue. Travellers with a particular interest in Mongolian history or natural history may want a third day.
Gandantegchinlen Khiid is Mongolia’s largest and most significant active Buddhist monastery. It remained operational during the Soviet period and continues as a functioning religious site today. The 26-metre Migjid Janraisig statue inside the main temple is among the largest indoor statues in Asia. Morning prayer between 9 and 10am is the most atmospheric time to visit.
Naadam is Mongolia’s national festival, held each year in mid-July and centred on three traditional sports: wrestling, horse racing, and archery. The main events take place at the central stadium in Ulaanbaatar. Tickets for stadium events must be purchased in advance, and accommodation books out quickly around festival dates.
Ulaanbaatar is generally safe for travellers who take standard urban precautions. Petty theft occurs at crowded markets and busy public spaces, so keep valuables secure. The city centre is walkable during daylight hours. Exercise the same awareness you would in any large city.
May to September is the most comfortable period, with warmer temperatures and better air quality. July brings the Naadam Festival, which is worth planning around if your dates allow. Winter (November to March) is bitterly cold and air pollution from coal heating can be significant.
The Gobi Desert sits roughly 500 kilometres south of Ulaanbaatar. Options include domestic flights to Dalanzadgad, which take around 90 minutes, or an overland journey by road. Most travellers join an organised tour that includes transport.
The Chinggis Khaan Equestrian Statue, 54 kilometres east of the city, is the most visited day excursion. Terelj National Park, around 80 kilometres from the city, offers grassland scenery, rock formations, and the chance to visit a working nomadic ger camp. Both can be done as half-day or full-day trips.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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