The steppe does not ease you in. Mongolia opens all at once: a sky that takes up more of your field of vision than seems possible, grasslands running to a horizon with nothing vertical between you and it, and a silence so complete it registers as something physical. This is not the kind of travel that rewards passive observation. It is a country you move through slowly, on its own terms, and it asks something of you in return.
For Australian travellers making the journey, the distance alone signals intention. What waits on the other side is one of the least-visited landscapes on earth, a nomadic culture that has endured for centuries without becoming a museum piece, and experiences that do not exist in the same form anywhere else. Visit once and the scale of it tends to stay with you.
Mongolia is not a destination that flatters everyone. The infrastructure is limited by design and by geography. The weather is extreme at either end of the year. Getting between regions takes time and a tolerance for rough roads. This is worth stating clearly, because it shapes what the experience becomes.
What Mongolia offers in return is scale and solitude in a combination that almost no other destination can match. The Gobi stretches further than most countries. The steppe north of Ulaanbaatar rolls without interruption for hundreds of kilometres. At sites that would carry crowd-control barriers anywhere else in Asia, you may find yourself entirely alone.
Nomadic culture here is not a performance laid on for visitors. Families still move with their herds between seasonal pastures. The ger is a functional dwelling, not a set piece. The hospitality customs that travellers encounter, the bowl of airag offered at the door, the particular way a guest moves within the space, are not performed for effect. They are simply how things are done.
Ulaanbaatar will surprise travellers arriving with pastoral expectations. It is loud, chaotic, and thoroughly modern in patches, Soviet-era architecture sitting alongside glass towers and a traffic problem of genuine ambition. It is worth two days. The country beyond it is worth two weeks.
The travel window is defined by temperature and road conditions, both of which narrow the options considerably.
June to September is the primary season. Days are warm, often hot in the Gobi, and the steppe is green. Roads are at their most navigable. July sits at the centre of the season, bringing the Naadam Festival: three days of horse racing, archery, and wrestling held across the country, with the largest events in Ulaanbaatar. For travellers interested in the festival, book well ahead. Accommodation and guides fill quickly.
April to May offers a quieter entry point. Nights are cold and snow is possible into May, but the landscapes are dramatic and visitor numbers are low. Experienced travellers who want the country without the peak-season rhythm often prefer this window.
November to March is winter in the full Mongolian sense. Temperatures in Ulaanbaatar regularly drop below minus 30 degrees Celsius. Travel outside the city is demanding and not suited to first-timers. That said, specialist operators run itineraries during this period covering eagle hunting in Bayan-Ölgii and the ice festivals of the north. For those prepared for it, the country in winter is a different thing altogether.
For Australians, the flight typically routes through Beijing, Seoul, or Tokyo, with total travel time from the east coast running to 14 to 18 hours depending on connections. Factor this into trip length when planning.
Mongolia covers 1.5 million square kilometres. Most travellers see a fraction of it. The regions below form the backbone of most itineraries, though few trips cover all of them.
Every journey to Mongolia starts here. The capital sits in a valley on the Tuul River, and its energy is unlike anywhere else in the country. Chinggis Khan Square anchors the city centre, flanked by the Government Palace and the National Museum of Mongolia, which holds some of the country’s strongest historical collections. Gandan Monastery, the most significant Buddhist site in the city, opens early and draws monks as well as visitors.
Forty kilometres east, the Chinggis Khan Statue complex rises from the Tuul River valley: a 40-metre steel figure on horseback, visible from a considerable distance. The museum beneath it covers the history of the Mongol Empire with more depth than the scale of the attraction might suggest.
Allow two days in Ulaanbaatar before heading into the country. Use the time to gather supplies, confirm logistics, and adjust.
Two hours from Ulaanbaatar, Terelj National Park offers an accessible introduction to the landscape without requiring a week of overland travel. Granite formations rise from the valley floor, ger camps are well established, and horseback riding across the surrounding steppe is a straightforward way to spend a morning. Ariyabal Monastery sits above the valley on a hillside, reached by a long stair. The park works well as a first night in the countryside, or as a standalone short itinerary for travellers with limited time.
West of Ulaanbaatar, Khustain Nuruu was established to protect the Przewalski’s horse, the world’s last genuinely wild horse species, extinct in the wild by the 1970s and reintroduced here in the 1990s. Several hundred now move across the park. Wildlife viewing here is unhurried; the horses cross open terrain at their own pace and are seen most reliably at dawn and dusk. It is one of a small number of places in the world where this encounter is possible at all.
The Gobi sits at the centre of most Mongolian itineraries, and justifiably so. This is the largest desert in Asia, and it is not the sand desert of popular imagination. Much of it is gravel plain, cut through by dry riverbeds and edged with low mountains. The sand comes later, and when it does, it is significant.
The Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag, named by the palaeontologist Roy Chapman Andrews for the colour they throw at dusk, are where some of the first dinosaur eggs ever discovered were found. The site is open and windswept, the red rock eroding into formations best seen late in the afternoon.
Further south, the Khongoryn Els sand dunes rise to 300 metres, stretching for nearly 200 kilometres, humming audibly in the right wind. Climbing them is slow and physical. The view from the top makes the effort easy to justify.
Yolyn Am, a narrow canyon in the Gurvan Saikhan mountains, holds ice in its deepest sections well into summer. Lammergeier and other raptors circle above, and the walk through the canyon is one of the most striking short excursions in the country.
Multi-day overland travel through the Gobi should be budgeted generously. Distances are long and the roads are tracks. A day’s drive may cover 200 kilometres and take seven or eight hours. This is not a limitation; it is what the Gobi requires.
The north is the part of Mongolia that many itineraries skip, and for travellers with time, it rewards the detour. Khövsgöl Lake sits near the Russian border, surrounded by taiga forest rather than steppe. The water is dark and cold and holds around two percent of the world’s fresh surface water. The Tsaatan people, reindeer herders who live in the forested mountains north of the lake, represent one of the last remaining communities in the world to maintain this way of life. Trekking in Mongolia’s north requires more planning than the Gobi, but offers a register of landscape and culture that is entirely distinct.
Western Mongolia is Kazakh country: a different language, a different faith, and a living tradition of eagle hunting practised here for centuries. Trained golden eagles hunt fox and hare across the autumn steppe, and the bond between hunter and bird is built over years. The Golden Eagle Festival, held in October in Ölgii, draws hunters from across the region. October sits outside the peak travel window, but the festival is worth planning around for travellers with a specific interest in this part of Mongolian life.
The road network is the defining logistical fact of travel in Mongolia. Paved roads exist between major centres but extend only so far. Beyond them, travel follows tracks established by habit and local knowledge, crossing river fords, skirting soft ground, and navigating by GPS and experience rather than signage. A 4WD vehicle with a driver who knows the terrain is not optional in most of the country; it is the vehicle of travel.
Domestic flights connect Ulaanbaatar to several regional centres. Dalanzadgad serves the Gobi; Mörön is the gateway for Khövsgöl. For travellers pressed for time, flying into a region and overlanding out, or the reverse, is a reasonable approach.
Overland travel is slow by most standards. A day’s drive may cover 200 to 300 kilometres and take the full day. The journey between sites is not dead time; the landscape through the window is part of what Mongolia is. But the distances demand honesty in planning.
Independent travel is possible. A local guide changes what is accessible, not just logistically, though that is significant, but in terms of what you understand about the places you move through. A guide with genuine knowledge of the country opens conversations, explains context, and navigates situations that a GPS cannot.
Outside Ulaanbaatar, ger camps are the standard accommodation across most of the country. A ger is a circular felt dwelling, engineered for the climate and for a nomadic life that requires it to be erected and dismantled in under an hour. Camps range from basic, with shared facilities and simple meals, to well-appointed operations with hot showers, good food, and beds made up with proper linen. Neither end of that range is glamping in the resort sense. They are functional, warm when the stove is lit, and an entirely appropriate way to sleep in a landscape this large.
In Ulaanbaatar, accommodation runs from budget guesthouses to mid-range business hotels, with a small number of higher-end options. Most travellers spend only a night or two in the capital before heading into the countryside.
Camping works well on longer overland itineraries during the summer months. Homestays with nomadic families are less predictable in terms of comfort but are consistently described by travellers as among the most valued experiences of the trip. The hospitality is genuine; the conditions are what they are.
On budget: Mongolia is not cheap once transport and guide costs are factored in. Accommodation, particularly ger camps with meals included, costs considerably less than an equivalent experience in most other countries. The expense sits in getting between places, not in sleeping there.
The Naadam Festival runs each July, centred on Ulaanbaatar but observed across the country. Horse racing, archery, and Mongolian wrestling are the three disciplines, and the atmosphere around the main stadium in the capital is dense and celebratory. Children as young as five ride in the long-distance horse races. Book accommodation and guides well in advance if Naadam anchors your itinerary.
Mongolian eagle hunting in Bayan-Ölgii is not a tourist attraction in any conventional sense. It is a living practice, part of the seasonal rhythm of Kazakh herding culture in western Mongolia. Visiting with a guide who has genuine relationships in the region is the difference between witnessing something real and watching a demonstration.
Nomadic hospitality has its own protocols, and knowing them matters. When entering a ger, move to the right and take a seat on the left side of the space. Accept any food or drink offered, or decline graciously with both hands touching the cup if you cannot. Do not step on the threshold. Do not whistle inside. These are not obscure customs; they are simply how guests behave, and a host will notice the difference.
Horseback riding across the steppe is not an activity bolt-on. On longer itineraries, it is a mode of transport: a way of covering ground between camps over multiple days, following routes that no vehicle can reach. For travellers willing to commit to the saddle, it opens a version of Mongolia that most visitors do not see.
Somewhere in the Gobi, or on the steppe north of Ulaanbaatar, the scale of the place stops being intellectual and becomes physical. The horizon does not end at a mountain or a coastline or a city. It simply continues. Most travellers find they carry some version of that with them.
Mongolia rewards patience and genuine curiosity. It does not perform for visitors. It is what it is: ancient, vast, and still largely itself.
Crooked Compass runs small-group journeys across Mongolia, from the Gobi Desert to the northern taiga, led by guides with genuine on-the-ground knowledge. View upcoming Mongolia departures
Australian passport holders can currently enter Mongolia visa-free for stays of up to 30 days. Entry requirements are subject to change. Travellers should confirm the latest visa and entry requirements with the Mongolian Immigration Agency or Smartraveller prior to departure. Visitors are currently required to register with the Mongolian Immigration Agency within 48 hours of arrival.
June to September is the primary travel window, offering warm temperatures, accessible roads, and the Naadam Festival in July. Spring, from April to May, is quieter and can be dramatic, though nights remain cold. Winter travel is possible with a specialist operator but is not suited to first-timers.
Most routes from Australia connect through Beijing, Seoul, or Tokyo, with onward flights to Ulaanbaatar’s Chinggis Khaan International Airport. Total travel time from Australia’s east coast runs to approximately 14 to 18 hours depending on the connection.
A ger is a traditional circular felt dwelling used by Mongolian nomads, engineered for warmth and portability. Ger camps are the standard accommodation outside Ulaanbaatar and range from basic operations with shared facilities to well-appointed camps with private ablutions and full meals. They are warm, functional, and the appropriate way to sleep in the Mongolian countryside. They are not luxury tents in the resort sense, and the experience is better for it.
Independent travel is possible, particularly within Ulaanbaatar and in the more accessible parks such as Terelj. For travel deeper into the country, a local guide makes a significant difference, not just logistically but in terms of cultural access and safety. The roads, distances, and remote nature of many sites make local knowledge genuinely valuable rather than optional.
Naadam is Mongolia’s national festival, held each year around 11 to 13 July. It celebrates three traditional disciplines: horse racing, archery, and Mongolian wrestling. The main events are held in Ulaanbaatar, with smaller festivals observed across the country. Children ride in the long-distance horse races, some as young as five. Book accommodation and guides well in advance if you plan to attend.
As a general orientation: accommodation in Mongolia, particularly ger camps, is relatively affordable. The cost of a trip is largely determined by transport and guide fees, which are significant given the distances involved and the need for 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers. Mongolia is not a budget backpacker destination once overland logistics are factored in, but it offers strong value relative to the quality and rarity of the experience.
The answer depends on the kind of experience you are after. The Gobi Desert, with the Flaming Cliffs, Khongoryn Els sand dunes, and Yolyn Am canyon, forms the centrepiece of most itineraries. Terelj National Park and Khustain Nuruu are accessible from Ulaanbaatar and good for a first taste of the country. Khövsgöl Lake in the north offers a completely different landscape and culture. Western Mongolia, centred on Bayan-Ölgii, is the place for eagle hunting and Kazakh cultural experiences. Most two-week itineraries will cover two or three of these regions well, rather than all of them quickly.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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