Sitting silently at the confluence of the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean, is the forgotten island of Socotra. Officially part of Yemen, but far from the chaos and crisis of the war on the mainland, this isolated island is like something out of Jurassic park.
Exploring the island of Socotra is unlike travelling through any other Middle Eastern region. Whilst the country is possibly one of the strictest religiously I have come across, it still has an island vibe about it and life is chilled and relaxed. The community is one of the friendliest I have come across and with Socotra only 143km long and 35km wide, the population of 100,000 people sounds like a lot, but you often go hours without seeing another soul.
Peace and quiet are abundant, with just one hotel on the island. If you’re looking for a luxury stay, Socotra isn’t for you. The hotel is basic. It sometimes has power and sometimes has water, but you can never be certain.
To really lean into the island vibe, the other option is to stay in a tent on the beach. Use the bush for a bathroom and the ocean for a shower…what more could you ask for?!
The draw card to the island of Socotra is its endemicity. Known as the Galapagos of Arabia, 5% of all wildlife and 35% of all plant life is endemic to the island. Socotra is often referred to as the most alien place on the planet due to its unique species.
From its humble capital, Hadibo, which does not really have much to offer apart from one bank and a handful of basic restaurants, the real beauty is in the island’s nature.
The big drawcard is its endemic trees. From the impressive bottle trees, also known as the desert rose when in flower (during Feb and March), certain types of frankincense trees and of course, the – the Dragons Blood Tree. There are over 80,000 dragon’s blood trees remaining on the island. They are over 500 years old and the new seedlings are unable to grow due to being eaten by goats! It takes almost 20 years for a small dragon’s blood tree to reach 30cm tall! There are scientist running a nursery of smaller dragon’s blood trees planted from seeds to help understand this unique species of tree.
The resin produced by these trees is used for medicinal purposes by locals and when mixed with water and consumed, it is used by locals who have just given birth to stop the bleeding.
Socotra is home to hundreds of caves and sea caves – many of which are still unexplored. One cave alongside Detwah Lagoon, even has an inhabitant! Known fondly as the caveman, Mr Aliyeh has followed three generations of his family living in his family’s cave. He harvests his own seafood from the stunning Detwah lagoon below and even reconstructed an orcas skeleton in his cave which he found beached in the lagoon and proudly wears its teeth around his neck.
He is brimming with fascinating stories of life as a caveman from faux pas with his English to how he became wealthy from gutting a beached whale and selling its amber.
Eating habits intertwine with daily life on the archipelago. Think communal meal preparation and recipes passed down through generations.
Locally sourced ingredients like fish, rice, dates and spices are diet staples. Meals are mostly cooked by grilling, baking or boiling methods, apart from Socotra’s delicacy of salted fish. The fish is dried and salted under the sun, for maximum flavour and a longer shelf life.
But this isn’t a place you’d describe as a foodie’s heaven. Lots of the food comes in tins and there’s just one restaurant on the island. You’ll find the best meals are cooked by your guide and crew.
Socotra is home to many different types of sand dunes. From rolling dunes which resemble those found in a desert, through to mega walls of sand pushed by the westerly winds against the side of the mountains. Both are equally impressive and great locations to take in the sunset.
Don’t miss these top photography spots in Socotra:
Socotra’s northern coastline is scattered with former soviet tanks. During the Soviet times, mainland Yemen was still divided into North and South Yemen as two separate countries. The soviets supported the south which also encompassed Socotra. South Yemen was the only Arab communist country under the regime and it stayed this way until the unification of North and South Yemen as one country in 1990, just one year before the collapse of the soviet union.
More recently, a new humanitarian crisis sparked in mainland Yemen, with a civil war beginning in 2014. Travel to mainland Yemen isn’t recommended as security conditions remain unpredictable.
Socotra’s isolation from Yemen’s mainland means the island is generally considered safe. The borders of Socotra are open to tourists, but travel isn’t as free as in many other places; the only reliable way in or out is on a once-weekly flight from and to Abu Dhabi, and the only way to book a flight is through a tour operator.
Being an island, you would have to expect somewhere decent for a swim. If you love wild swimming, then hiking into impressive canyons and swimming in the tranquil wadis will tick your box. Most wadis are hidden inside impressive canyons, most of which require a moderate hike to access. The spring water from the mountains makes for a refreshing dip as you float amongst sheer cliff faces and smooth boulders.
If the ocean is more your style, Socotra is home to some of the most spectacular beaches on the planet – most of which are untouched and secluded. Shuuab Beach accessible by boat is simply magical and the Detwah Lagoon is another world away. The water is like a bath, the transparency is simply incredible and the colour is brilliant turquoise blue.
“The Galapagos of Arabia” is so rich in its biodiversity, but it’s under threat by climate change and the overuse of resources – not to mention a 2023 oil spill that triggered an emergency response.
Socotra has experienced its fair share of natural disasters made worse by climate change, such as droughts, floods and cyclones, as well as land degradation. Issues like overfishing and overgrazing have prompted new lifestyles, and a potential disconnection between people and the environment.
The lives of the plants, animals and humans on the island are all affected in some way.
The Socotra Archipelago is home to plants and animals found nowhere else on the planet. And that’s something worth protecting.
In 2018, the World Heritage Committee urged Yemen to halt any activities that might impact the wildlife and landscapes of Socotra, which is a World Heritage site. That included everything from uncontrolled developments to unsustainable fishing and the introduction of new, non-native species.
In the midst of poverty and political disruption, there have been efforts to save the island’s prized dragon’s blood trees (which are known locally as Dam al-Akhawain).
A recent reduction in funding to save the trees from the impact of the war and climate change has put much of the responsibility in the hands of the island’s inhabitants. But why’s it so important? Kay Van Damme, a conservation biologist, puts it bluntly:
“The loss of one dragon blood tree means the loss of tourists, of water, of medication, and — what is worse — the loss of the Soqotri identity.”
The dragon’s blood tree is now listed as a vulnerable species on the IUCN Red List, but protection efforts started way before now. 27 years ago, Adeeb Abdullah started a plant nursery in his backyard, a move that kickstarted numerous other initiatives to grow and save the umbrella-like trees.
It’s easier to get lost on the less-travelled trails. Sometimes that’s part of the allure, but I wanted to help you put your best foot forward when you visit Socotra. This isn’t a place you can travel independently.
When preparing for your trip, remember that Socotra is a remote island. Take US dollars in cash as there are no ATMs and cards aren’t accepted anywhere.
If you’re planning any treks or hikes, you’ll be short on electricity. We certainly got our money’s worth out of the external battery packs and USB power banks we picked up for the trip.
Clothes-wise, pack hiking shoes, a hat for sun protection, light T-shirts and trekking trousers, and a light jacket for the evening. For maximum comfort, also pack insect repellent, first aid kits, a backpack, a flashlight and a dry bag to keep your belongings dry.
The locals are used to seeing Western tourists in most parts of the island, so your everyday clothes are fine (that includes wearing your bikini at the beach). However, try to dress modestly when going to the villages. Ideally, cover your knees and shoulders, and women should keep their hair covered.
Arabic is the official language spoken, so it would help to get familiar with some basic Arabic words and phrases so you can connect with the Socotri people. This is a Muslim society, so respect their customs and habits. For example, dress modestly in villages, remove your shoes when invited into a Socotri house, and don’t take photos without asking for permission.
Show respect to the locals and you’ll get to experience the generous Socotri hospitality.
Between 2015 and 2018, Yemen’s civil war put a halt to all air service to Socotra. Now, things are back up and running, and a charter flight currently departs every Tuesday from Abu Dhabi.
This is a governmental charter flight, meaning online booking isn’t available, but the team at Crooked Compass can sort out your flights for you.
You’ll need a Yemeni visa to access this archipelago which our team will also help you with.
The island experiences a windy monsoon from June to September, and a rainy monsoon from November to January. During the windy monsoon, temperatures are high, and the air gets filled with unpleasant sand and dust.
We recommend hopping on a flight to Socotra between February and May. This is when the weather is at its most pleasant – not too hot or too cold! If you want to catch the stunning flower blooms on the island, aim for January or February.
For all its rare and stunning natural beauty, Socotra can be a challenging travel destination. It’s a place that has stood still in time and is isolated from the rest of the world, including mainland Yemen.
Take a private tour with Crooked Compass to a place so untouched, it can feel like you’re the only traveller there. Keep in mind that Socotra has no public transport and you need permits to get anywhere, so a tour is the only way to experience it for yourself.
A charter flight currently depart from weekly from Abu Dhabi and a visa is required to access this archipelago. There is simply no place on earth like Socotra.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
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