Join Crooked Compass Founder Lisa Pagotto on an extraordinary expedition across Papua New Guinea by charter plane through one of the most culturally diverse countries on Earth.
Home to hundreds of tribes, languages and distinct cultural identities, Papua New Guinea is a place that defies easy explanation. It is a country where traditions remain strong, communities are deeply connected to place, and every region tells a different story. Travelling by private charter aircraft, you will access remote corners of the country that remain beyond the reach of most travellers. Spend time with the Melpa people in the lush Highlands, venture into the lands of the iconic Huli Wigmen, and be welcomed into the rarely visited villages of Lake Murray, where daily life remains closely connected to the lake and the traditions that have sustained communities for generations. Journey into the Sepik Region, where the remote Karawari River winds through dense rainforest and villages renowned for their intricate carvings, artistic traditions and enduring cultural practices. Stay in a collection of renowned wilderness lodges, each offering a front-row seat to some of the country’s most remarkable landscapes and cultural encounters. This is not Papua New Guinea from the sidelines. It is an opportunity to spend time in places few travellers ever reach, to meet the people who call them home and to gain a deeper understanding of one of the world’s most fascinating and least understood destinations.
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Welcome to Papua New Guinea. Upon arrival in Port Moresby, continue to Mount Hagen in the Highlands on PX188 (flight not included), where your journey into one of the world’s most culturally diverse and least understood destinations begins.
Upon arrival, travel through the fertile Wahgi Valley, passing traditional gardens, villages and rolling mountain landscapes enroute to Rondon Ridge. Perched high above Mount Hagen, the lodge commands sweeping views across the valley below, with layers of mist often drifting between the surrounding peaks.
The afternoon is yours to settle into your surroundings and take in the remarkable scenery. As the sun begins to set across the Highlands, gather with your fellow travellers for your first evening together and a welcome dinner overlooking the valley. (D)
Overnight – Rondon Ridge
Today, explore the fertile Wahgi Valley and spend time with the Melpa people, one of Papua New Guinea’s most influential cultural groups. While first contact with the outside world occurred only in the 1930s, the Melpa have maintained traditions and agricultural practices that stretch back thousands of years. Often referred to as “true farmers”, their cultivation methods are believed to date back more than 9,000 years, making them among the world’s earliest agricultural communities.
Visiting villages throughout the valley, you’ll gain insight into the customs, beliefs and social structures that continue to shape Melpa life today. Learn about the traditions surrounding marriage and funerals, the rites observed by widowed women, stories of tribal warfare and the customs that continue to influence daily life across the Highlands.
The region is also home to the renowned Pogla Mudmen, recognised for their distinctive bilas and the fascinating legends that surround them. Through these encounters, gain a deeper understanding of the traditions, resilience and cultural identity that have shaped Melpa society for generations. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Rondon Ridge
This morning, take your charter flight to Lake Murray. The landscape below gradually transforms from the lush tangle of the Highlands to the vast floodplains of Western Province, before the immense waters of Lake Murray reveal themselves beneath you.
One of Papua New Guinea’s largest lakes, Lake Murray is home to remote communities whose lives, traditions and beliefs remain deeply connected to the water. Rarely visited by outsiders, it offers a unique opportunity to experience a part of the country where culture and daily life continue to be shaped by the lake itself.
Your home for the next three nights is Lake Murray Lodge, nestled amongst the trees on an island spit overlooking the tranquil waters. The remoteness here is almost deafening. The only sounds are the gentle lapping of the water and the occasional dugout canoe gliding silently across the lake. Settle into your lakeside veranda and absorb the stillness of this isolated corner of Papua New Guinea before taking a leisurely walk around the island following lunch. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Lake Murray Lodge
Over the next two days, travel by boat between remote villages scattered across the vast waters of Lake Murray, spending time with communities whose connection to the lake has shaped their lives, beliefs and traditions for generations.
In many parts of the world, traditional cultures survive as performances for visitors. Here, they remain interwoven into everyday life. The lake continues to provide food, transport and identity, influencing everything from community relationships and customs to the stories passed between generations.
As guests within these communities, you’ll gain a rare insight into a way of life that few outsiders ever have the privilege to experience. Spend time with local families, learn about the traditions and customs that continue to shape village life, and discover how communities are navigating the balance between preserving cultural identity and adapting to an ever-changing world.
Throughout your visits, villagers will share elements of their cultural heritage through traditional arts and crafts, ceremonial body painting, warrior dress and storytelling. Yet it is often the conversations, shared moments and human connections that leave the most lasting impression.
Far removed from the routes travelled by most visitors to Papua New Guinea, these encounters offer something increasingly rare in modern travel; the opportunity to move beyond observation and spend meaningful time with people whose lives are deeply connected to place, community and tradition.
Returning to the lodge each afternoon, reflect on the day’s experiences as the sun sinks across the lake and dugout canoes make their final journey home. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Lake Murray Lodge
This morning, board your charter flight and journey deep into the Sepik Region, flying over an endless expanse of rainforest where villages, rivers and forest canopies stretch far beyond the horizon. As the landscape unfolds beneath you, you’ll begin to appreciate the scale and remoteness of one of Papua New Guinea’s most isolated regions.
Your home for the next two nights is Karawari Lodge, perched high above the winding Karawari River and surrounded by hundreds of kilometres of untouched tropical wilderness. Accessible only by air, this remarkable lodge offers a rare window into a region where ancient traditions, spiritual beliefs and artistic expression remain deeply embedded within community life.
Following lunch, visit a nearby village to learn about the harvesting and preparation of the sago palm, a staple food that has sustained communities throughout the Sepik for generations. More than simply a source of nourishment, sago sits at the centre of daily life and offers an insight into the enduring relationship between people, culture and the environment.
As the afternoon light softens across the rainforest canopy, return to the lodge and take in the extraordinary sense of isolation that defines this remote corner of Papua New Guinea. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Karawari Lodge
Today offers a fascinating insight into life along the mighty Karawari River, one of Papua New Guinea’s most culturally rich and remote regions. Travelling by riverboat from the comfort of Karawari Lodge, journey through a landscape of winding waterways and dense tropical forest to visit several traditional villages that line the riverbanks. These communities remain deeply connected to their ancestral customs and provide a rare opportunity to experience a way of life that has endured for generations.
Meet local villagers in their traditional homes, learn about daily life in this remote corner of the Sepik region, and witness cultural performances that showcase the stories, beliefs, and traditions of the Karawari people. The tribes of the region are renowned for their artistic expression, with intricate carvings, ceremonial masks, drums, sculptures, and finely woven baskets playing an important role in both cultural and spiritual life.
Throughout the day, there will be opportunities to engage with local artisans and, should you wish, purchase authentic handmade artworks directly from the communities, providing valuable support to local families whilst taking home a meaningful reminder of your journey.
Return to the lodge in the afternoon to relax and enjoy the spectacular river views as the sun sets across the floodplains. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Karawari Lodge
This morning, transfer to the airstrip for your charter flight with spectacular views across Papua New Guinea’s rugged interior. Soaring above vast expanses of untouched rainforest, winding river systems, and dramatic mountain ranges, arrive in the remote Tari Valley, homeland of the legendary Huli people.
The Huli are Papua New Guinea’s largest tribal group and among its most recognisable. Renowned for their elaborate wigs, striking face paint, and rich cultural traditions, they remain deeply connected to their ancestral lands and customs. The Tari Valley offers one of the country’s most rewarding opportunities to experience traditional highlands culture set against a backdrop of breathtaking natural beauty.
Upon arrival, transfer to the renowned Ambua Lodge, perched on the edge of the rainforest escarpment with sweeping views across the valley below. One of Papua New Guinea’s most celebrated wilderness lodges, Ambua is perfectly positioned for both cultural exploration and wildlife encounters.
This afternoon, enjoy a guided walk along Ambua’s extensive network of rainforest trails. These winding paths lead through pristine cloud forest, across traditional vine bridges, and past cascading waterfalls hidden amongst the dense vegetation. The region is particularly famous for its birdlife and is considered one of the best places in Papua New Guinea to search for the extraordinary Birds of Paradise. Up to thirteen species have been recorded within the lodge’s surrounding forests, alongside a remarkable diversity of orchids, exotic plants, butterflies, and other endemic wildlife.
Return to the lodge as evening falls and enjoy the tranquillity of this remarkable highland setting. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Ambua Lodge
Today is dedicated to exploring the homeland of the iconic Huli people, one of Papua New Guinea’s most fascinating and visually distinctive cultural groups. The Huli are renowned throughout the country for their vibrant ceremonial dress, known as bilas, and for maintaining traditions that have been passed down through countless generations. Their striking appearance, characterised by intricately crafted wigs, colourful face paint, and elaborate adornments of bird feathers, flowers, and mosses, has made them one of the most recognised tribal cultures in the Pacific.
A highlight of the day is a visit to a traditional wig school, where young Huli men undertake the lengthy and highly respected process of growing and crafting the ceremonial wigs that play such an important role in their cultural identity. Here, gain insight into the symbolism, artistry, and discipline involved in a tradition that continues to be practised today.
Throughout the day, visit local villages and spend time with community members, learning how the Huli have adapted to the modern world whilst remaining deeply connected to the customs, stories, and beliefs of their ancestors. Witness traditional performances, hear local perspectives on contemporary life in the Highlands, and gain a deeper understanding of the social structures and cultural practices that continue to shape Huli society.
Against the backdrop of the lush Tari Valley, today’s encounters offer a rare opportunity to experience one of Papua New Guinea’s most enduring and culturally rich communities in an authentic and meaningful way. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Ambua Lodge
Transfer to the airport for your onward flight from Tari to Port Moresby on PX835. (Flight not included). On arrival, transfer to Airways Hotel where the remainder of your day is at leisure or you may choose to connect to your onward flight to your next destination. (B,D)
Overnight – Airways Hotel
This morning you depart for your outgoing international flight back home. (B)
Before deciding whether Papua New Guinea should be on your bucket list, it’s important to know if this unique, rugged travel experience suits your travel style. To help guide your decision, here are some aspects of travelling in Papua New Guinea that past travellers have faced – are you ready for the adventure? Click here to read the full blog.
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**Please note that this tour can be organised on request for private departures.
* Pricing is subject to change at anytime until full payment has been received.
* A minimum of 4 adults is required to guarantee this departure.
A non-refundable deposit of $1500 AUD per person is required to secure your place. Final payment is due no later than 60 days prior to departure. Travel insurance is mandatory for travelling with Crooked Compass. For full terms and conditions, please click here.
Small group tours providing intimate connections to gain a deeper understanding and emotional connection to the community, tribes, cultures and lands explored.
Exploring the world’s most remote reaches and challenging destinations requires a high level of expertise which can only be learned from first-hand experience. We know because we go.
In an ever-changing global landscape of rules, regulations and restrictions, rest-assured you are being looked after by those in the know. Given the remote regions that we explore, our passengers safety is our top priority.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
More about out Tour Styles.
Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.