Papua New Guinea is truly one of the last untouched destinations in the world. Home to 850 distinct languages, some of the world’s largest cave systems and five per cent of the planet’s biodiversity. Even now, scientists are still discovering new species of plants and animals in its ancient rainforests, making up the third largest in the world.
This makes Papua New Guinea one of the most untouched wildernesses, beckoning travellers from all over the world.
Before deciding whether Papua New Guinea should be on your bucket list, it’s important to know if this unique, rugged travel experience suits your travel style. To help guide your decision, here are some aspects of travelling in Papua New Guinea that past travellers have faced—are you ready for the adventure?
The Last Frontier
PNG is not your typical tourist destination. Tourism is still in its infancy, and schedules and plans can and do shift unexpectedly. Guides are locals who deeply understand their land, but formal accreditation is rare. You might find their style different and more casual from guides you’ve had in other countries. Government action, weather, and local conditions can disrupt itineraries. In such cases, it helps to be flexible and patient. Could you embrace a “go with the flow” mindset, knowing that flexibility is key and surprises — both good and challenging — are part of the journey?
Infrastructure
Roads in the Highlands and other remote regions are often bumpy, broken, dusty, and far from smooth. Vehicles are often functional but not luxurious. If spotless interiors and new cars with in-seat screens that plugin for charging at the end of each day are your standard, PNG may test your comfort zone. Expect mostly 4WD vehicles that sometimes have ‘troopy’ style seats. Most vehicles are diesel. River journeys such as along the Sepik are in motorised canoes which are basic and functional. Expect seating on wooden benches with little padding and no shade (we suggest bringing your own umbrella for this and a jumper or travel cushion for additional comfort on your seat!).
Could you embrace the ruggedness and view it as part of the adventure?
Meals in Papua New Guinea: Simple but Satisfying
Meals in Papua New Guinea are simple, often featuring basic yet nutritious dishes like root vegetables (taro, potatoes), chicken, or pork. Local cafés, especially in regional areas like Mount Hagen, typically offer variations of chicken and chips or fish and chips and are popular with both locals and travellers. Do not expect quinoa, kale, poke bowls or kombucha to wash down your lunch!
At festivals, meals are basic, and hygiene cannot always be guaranteed, so our team will often bring packed lunches (think sandwiches and a piece of fruit) from your hotel for freshness and peace of mind. We also recommend carrying protein bars or similar snacks, as purchasing food locally throughout the day can be challenging and limited.
For those with dietary restrictions, options may be available but can be limited. However, you can always count on the food to be fresh, authentic, and natural.
Could you embrace the simplicity of local meals and the freshness of natural ingredients, knowing that some flexibility in dining choices may be needed during your journey?
Flights. What flights?
Travelling by flight is essential in Papua New Guinea due to limited road infrastructure and infrequent ship schedules. Air travel can be chaotic, with frequent delays and cancellations on both Air Niugini and PNG Air. The recent national fuel shortage has only added to the disruption, causing ongoing flight cancellations and delays.
To navigate this, we recommend routing all flights through Port Moresby, as it offers more options for alternative flights and breaking journeys rather than trying to navigate domestic connections – trust us on this one! A pre-and post-night stay in Port Moresby is advised, allowing for flexibility if your connections are disrupted. Allow buffer days between flights to help accommodate potential delays. Travel light with only hand luggage to avoid the hassle of checked baggage, as it can complicate matters during cancellations.
Domestic airports are often crowded, uncomfortable, and lacking in amenities. Seating is limited to hard plastic chairs and there won’t be enough for everyone. When there are flight delays food and drinks can run out quickly, so carrying your own water and snacks is recommended. Expect long waits at customer service desks, where communication is scarce, and flight cancellations are often not reflected in the booking system. In the event of a cancellation, you have little control over which hotel you are assigned to, and the process can be slow and unclear – although you can always book your own – this is much quicker and faster, however means it is an additional cost to you but far less stressful.
Could you embrace the unpredictability of Papua New Guinea’s air travel system, knowing that flexibility, patience, and a sense of adventure are essential for the journey?
Not a budget destination
Despite its underdeveloped tourism infrastructure, Papua New Guinea is far from an inexpensive destination. Travelling here requires a flexible budget, as costs can quickly add up. Operating a tour in PNG is also costly. Factors like premium insurance, additional security, fluctuating fuel prices, guide shortages, and the need for reliable vehicles all contribute to the high expenses. Unlike other destinations, the cost here extends beyond just accommodation and meals. Even though the places you visit in PNG may be rustic, the prices are premium, however, the cultural experience you will have will far surpass any budget concerns.
The Red Stains of Betel Nut
One of the more surprising cultural practices in Papua New Guinea is the chewing of betel nut, or “buai.” This habit involves mixing betel nut with lime powder and mustard stick, creating a red paste that chewers spit out after use. The bright red stains left behind can be alarming if you’re not expecting it, often resembling blood splatters. Betel nut chewing is deeply ingrained in the daily life and social fabric of PNG, while your guides won’t chew it – almost everyone else will! Watch where you step!
Roughing it
In the Highlands and rural communities, established lodges can be akin to camping. In some places, you’ll find single beds or double rooms with flushing toilets and showers, powered by a generator and at the other end of the spectrum simplicity takes centre stage. In basic lodges, water may come straight from the rivers, and facilities will be basic with communal long-drop toilets (no toilet paper), a bucket and water for a shower, dirt floor with either plastic or mat covering and no electricity.
Would you trade modern conveniences for the rare adventure of truly immersing yourself in the remote beauty of the Papua New Guinean wilderness and village life?
Urban life after dark
When night falls in Papua New Guinea, the streets transform into quiet, dimly lit spaces. Most streets lack lighting, and it’s generally considered risky to be out after dark. Port Moresby can feel particularly overwhelming with its reputation for high security and the visible measures in place to protect residents and visitors alike. Tall fences, gated communities, and security checkpoints are a common part of life here. Adding to the experience is the noticeable wealth gap, with many foreigners, primarily Australians, residing in gated, affluent neighbourhoods and upscale malls. This stark contrast can be jarring but is part of the complex fabric of the city.
At Crooked Compass, we take safety seriously, especially in the Highlands and the Sepik region. Our hotels have dedicated security personnel for guests, and we position additional security at key points around the festival grounds. While we’ve never encountered any issues, we prioritise duty of care to ensure peace of mind for all.
Dispelling the Cannibalism Stereotype in Papua New Guinea
While Papua New Guinea is a nation rich in tribal traditions, the practice of cannibalism has long been abandoned. Perpetuating this outdated stereotype not only misrepresents the country’s cultural evolution but also offends its people. Can you set aside preconceived notions and explore Papua New Guinea with an open mind, appreciating its rich cultural heritage without the lens of outdated stereotypes?
The Kindness of Strangers
The kindness of people in Papua New Guinea is truly remarkable. Locals often take it upon themselves to protect and assist outsiders, especially the rare tourist. Whether it’s offering to guide you around or helping in times of need, their generosity knows no bounds. When someone loses something valuable, like a wallet, strangers will go out of their way to help—searching buses, offering fare, and even suggesting ways to broadcast a message.
Black Magic Beliefs in the Highlands
Black magic, or sanguma, is an integral part of life in the Papua New Guinea highlands, influencing how people interpret misfortune. When someone falls ill unexpectedly, has an accident, or even dies without an apparent cause, it’s often attributed to witchcraft. This belief can create an undercurrent of suspicion, particularly towards strangers or those perceived as outsiders. Would you embrace the challenge of understanding these cultural dynamics without judgment?
Understanding Animal Welfare and Cultural Perspectives
Travelling through Papua New Guinea offers many eye-opening experiences, especially when it comes to food and survival. For many communities, protein sources are limited, and the way animals are treated is based on necessity rather than sentiment. What might seem shocking to outsiders—such as seeing a live cuscus for sale as food—is simply a way of life here. Back home, discussions about animal welfare often spark strong emotions, but in places where survival is the priority, these perspectives shift. It’s a reminder that our way of thinking isn’t the only way—or always the right way. Respecting culture means understanding why people do things differently and recognising that, in many cases, they have no other choice. How do you balance cultural respect with your personal values when travelling? Would you step in, or would you observe and reflect?
Going off-grid
If you rely on your device, the lack of charging points and power outages might test your patience. Are you okay with unplugging and embracing a digital detox? Wi-Fi? Don’t even think about this. Some camps say they have Wi-Fi, but the chances of it being a solid connection are worth embracing just being disconnected. No need for connectivity anxiety out here!
Eyes off the clock
In Papua New Guinea, the pace of life is deeply connected to the land, community, and cultural traditions. For centuries, time was marked by the sun’s movement and the rhythms of daily village life rather than clocks. Events tend to unfold when everyone is ready, rather than at a predetermined hour. If you’re someone who values punctuality and structure, Papua New Guinea might challenge your expectations. Remember that time here is about quality, not quantity. People prioritise relationships and the experience itself over the clock.
A Final Thought
In remote places of the world, things rarely follow a structured plan. While our team at Crooked Compass do our best to prepare you for your journey it’s good advice to always expect the unexpected and embrace this as part of the wild experience. While this can be annoying for some, it also means you might experience unexpected surprises along the way. So much of travel comes down to an open mind and an attitude that embraces adventure.
Also, not all of the points above will apply to you. Touring Port Moresby is an entirely different experience from canoeing down the Sepik and staying with remote tribes. Every province in Papua New Guinea delivers a different style of travel – from a gentle entry level of Papua New Guinea through to hardcore initiation ceremonies and skin-scarring acts for those wanting to dive deep into tribal traditions. Our team will let you know what to expect at each part of the journey and direct you to find the right part of Papua New Guinea for your style and expectations. If you are ever unsure just ask – we’re happy to help!
Every journey challenges what we think we know. Whether it’s navigating the unfamiliar streets after dark, stepping into a world where black magic shapes everyday decisions, or adjusting to rural stays with bucket showers and long-drop toilets, travel in PNG isn’t just about seeing—it’s about understanding. Some moments may shock you, like the first sight of betel nut-stained pavement or the realisation that a cuscus for sale is destined for dinner, but these encounters offer a rare insight into a way of life that isn’t ours to judge, only to respect.
So, the question is—are you ready for the adventure?
Travel in Papua New Guinea is an invitation to step out of your comfort zone and embrace a different way of life. It’s a test of patience, but also a lesson in slowing down and seeing the world. You’re not just adapting to their culture—you’re becoming part of it. Be open, be curious, and get ready to visit one of the most unique wildernesses on Earth.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
More about out Tour Styles.
Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
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