Journey through the untamed landscapes and ancient heart of Ethiopia on an expedition that blends dramatic natural wonders with one of Africa’s richest cultural legacies. Explore the spectacular sandstone escarpments of Gheralta, stand beneath the remarkable rock-hewn churches of Lalibela during Ethiopian Christmas celebrations, and uncover the enduring legacy of the ancient Kingdom of Axum.
Travel deep into the Afar Region and the extraordinary Danakil Depression, one of the hottest and most otherworldly places on Earth. Cross vast salt flats alongside centuries-old camel caravans, witness the vivid geothermal landscapes of Dallol, and experience the raw power of Ethiopia’s volcanic frontier.
Along the way, immerse yourself in bustling markets, traditional cuisine, colourful cultural traditions, and unforgettable encounters that reveal the remarkable diversity of this extraordinary country.
Download this tour’s PDF brochure and start your planning offline!
Welcome to Ethiopia. Set high in the Ethiopian Highlands at an elevation of approximately 2,100 to 2,300 metres, Addis Ababa is one of the highest capital cities in the world. Known as the political capital of Africa, it is home to the African Union and the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa. Its name, meaning “New Flower” in Amharic, reflects a city where centuries of history sit alongside a dynamic modern identity.
Upon arrival at Addis Ababa Bole International Airport, you will be warmly welcomed by your Crooked Compass representative in the Arrivals Hall before meeting your private English-speaking guide, who will accompany you throughout your journey. Transfer to your hotel to check in. (D)
Overnight – Ramada Addis or similar
Transfer to the airport this morning for your flight to Axum, the ancient capital of one of Africa’s greatest civilisations. At its height, the Kingdom of Axum was renowned for its monumental stone architecture, early coinage, and one of the earliest written scripts in sub-Saharan Africa. Today, the city remains a remarkable archaeological landscape where history, faith, and legend are closely intertwined.
Begin your exploration with visits to the Tombs of King Kaleb and King Gebre Meskel, important royal burial sites reflecting Axum’s imperial legacy, before continuing to the Ezana Inscriptions, which commemorate King Ezana, the ruler who adopted Christianity in the 4th century and established Axum as one of the world’s earliest Christian kingdoms.
Continue to the traditional Bath of the Queen of Sheba (Mai Shum), a site closely associated with Ethiopian royal tradition and biblical legend, before visiting the iconic Northern Stelae Field. Here, towering granite obelisks mark ancient royal burial grounds and stand as enduring symbols of Axum’s engineering achievement and royal authority.
Conclude your sightseeing at the Church of St. Mary of Zion, one of Ethiopia’s holiest sites and traditionally believed to be the resting place of the Ark of the Covenant. While access to the chapel housing the Ark is restricted, the church complex remains one of the country’s most significant pilgrimage destinations.
This afternoon, depart Axum and travel through the rugged northern highlands towards Gheralta, where dramatic sandstone mountains and ancient monasteries dominate the landscape. (B,D)
Overnight – Gheralta Lodge or similar
After breakfast this morning, set out to explore two of Gheralta’s hidden rock-hewn treasures. Begin with a scenic drive from Hawzien to the cliffs near Megab, followed by a gentle one-hour trek through farmland and a shaded riverbed to reach Mariam Papaseit.
At this hidden semi-monolithic church, meet the local priest who will open the sanctuary and reveal its remarkable collection of vibrant 17th-century murals. Admire the biblical scenes and the depiction of the 24 Elders of the Apocalypse while exploring the unique blend of carved stone and traditional architectural elements.
In the afternoon, continue to Giorgis Maikado (Giyorgis Maikado), one of the lesser-known yet highly rewarding rock-hewn churches of the Gheralta region. Easily accessible by a gentle walk through a scenic valley, this beautifully carved sandstone church offers impressive architecture, elegant pillars, arches, and a peaceful atmosphere that reflects Tigray’s rich religious heritage.
Return to your hotel. (B,D)
Overnight – Gheralta Lodge or similar
Depart the Gheralta Mountains this morning and travel through the dramatic landscapes of northern Ethiopia towards Mekele, where centuries of history are woven into the rugged sandstone escarpments.
En route, visit Abreha we Atsbeha, one of the most significant rock-hewn churches in the Tigray region. Believed to date from the 4th century, this remarkable sanctuary is carved into a towering sandstone cliff and is regarded as a masterpiece of Tigrayan ecclesiastical architecture. Inside, soaring cruciform pillars support the vast interior, while beautifully preserved 17th-century murals depict biblical scenes, saints, and centuries of Ethiopia’s enduring Christian tradition.
Continue to Mekele Airport for your scheduled flight to Addis Ababa. Upon arrival, transfer to your hotel, where the remainder of the evening is at leisure before continuing your journey to Lalibela tomorrow. (B,D)
Overnight – Ramada Addis or similar
Transfer to the airport this morning for your flight to Lalibela, one of Africa’s most remarkable historical and spiritual destinations. Nestled within the rugged highlands of northern Ethiopia, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is renowned for its extraordinary rock-hewn churches, where history, architecture, and living faith have remained intertwined for centuries.
Upon arrival, meet your guide and transfer to your lodge before beginning your exploration of Lalibela’s sacred church complex. Carved directly into the volcanic rock during the 12th century under the reign of King Lalibela, these remarkable churches remain active places of worship and are regarded among the world’s greatest architectural achievements.
This afternoon, explore part of the Northern Group of Churches, including Bete Medhane Alem, widely recognised as the largest monolithic church in the world. Connected by a network of narrow passageways, tunnels, and courtyards, the churches form a remarkable underground complex that continues to welcome pilgrims and worshippers from across Ethiopia. Return to your lodge in the late afternoon, with the remainder of the evening at leisure before continuing your exploration of Lalibela tomorrow. (B,D)
Overnight – Mezena Lodge or similar
Begin the day with an excursion to Asheton Mariam Monastery, dramatically perched high above Lalibela in the surrounding mountains. A scenic drive is followed by a rewarding hike along mountain trails and through rural villages, with sweeping views across the Ethiopian Highlands and the rock-hewn churches below.
Founded during the reign of King Lalibela, Asheton Mariam remains an active monastery and an important place of pilgrimage. Inside, discover a remarkable collection of ancient religious treasures, including beautifully illustrated manuscripts, processional crosses, and sacred artefacts that have been preserved for centuries.
Return to Lalibela this afternoon to explore the remaining churches within the UNESCO World Heritage-listed complex. Visit the iconic Bete Giyorgis, the most celebrated of Lalibela’s churches, carved in the shape of a perfect Greek cross and regarded as one of the finest examples of monolithic architecture in the world.
Continue through the network of tunnels, narrow passageways, and hidden courtyards that connect the churches, revealing the extraordinary engineering and spiritual vision behind this remarkable sacred city, often referred to as Ethiopia’s “New Jerusalem.” Return to your lodge for the evening. (B,D)
Overnight – Mezena Lodge or similar
Transfer to Lalibela Airport this morning for your scheduled flight to Addis Ababa. Upon arrival, meet your guide and transfer to your hotel. The remainder of the afternoon is at leisure to relax, explore at your own pace, or enjoy the facilities of your hotel. (B,D)
Overnight – Ramada Addis or similar
Transfer to the airport this morning for your flight to Semera, gateway to the remote Afar Region. On arrival, begin your overland journey into one of the most extraordinary landscapes on Earth, where volcanic activity, salt deserts, and geothermal features have shaped a landscape unlike anywhere else.
Travel to Alalobed, home to a remarkable geothermal field of steaming pools, mineral deposits, and vivid colours. Visit the Alalobed Spouter, a near-constant geyser where water temperatures approach 97°C, creating a striking display of geothermal activity.
Continue towards Lake Afdera, as the landscape becomes increasingly arid and dramatic. Along the way, pass small oases where Afar pastoralists water their livestock and visit a traditional Afar village to gain insight into the customs and daily life of one of Ethiopia’s most resilient nomadic communities.
As you approach Lake Afdera, vast salt flats and evaporation ponds come into view, marking one of Ethiopia’s most important salt-producing regions. Arrive at your remote campsite beneath the palm trees beside the lake, where time permits to relax in the naturally heated mineral springs or enjoy a swim before dinner under the desert sky. (B,D)
Overnight – Camping at Lake Afdera
Depart Lake Afdera this morning and continue deeper into the Danakil Depression, travelling across one of the hottest and most remote landscapes on Earth. As the journey unfolds, volcanic plains, desert escarpments, and vast salt flats create an ever-changing panorama.
Arrive at Hamed Ela before continuing to Lake Assale, an immense salt lake that has sustained the Afar people for centuries. Here, witness the traditional extraction of salt using methods passed down through generations, as workers cut rectangular salt blocks by hand before loading them onto camel caravans for transport across the desert. Once prized as a form of currency, these salt bars remain an enduring symbol of the region’s history and trade. From Hamed Ela, travel under military escort, as required for journeys through this remote region of the Danakil.
Settle into your desert campsite for an unforgettable evening beneath the stars. (B,D)
Overnight – Camping at Hamed Ela
Set out this morning for Dallol, one of the most extraordinary geological landscapes on Earth. Situated more than 100 metres below sea level, this remarkable geothermal field is renowned for its vividly coloured mineral deposits, steaming vents, bubbling pools, and salt formations in brilliant shades of yellow, green, orange, and red. Formed by volcanic activity and mineral-rich hot springs, Dallol is one of the most unique natural environments on the planet.
Explore the surrounding salt plains, where traditional Afar salt miners continue to harvest salt by hand and camel caravans transport their loads across the desert, preserving a trade that has endured for centuries.
After exploring Dallol, continue across ancient lava fields and the stark volcanic landscapes of the Danakil Depression to the base of Erta Ale, one of the world’s few continuously active shield volcanoes.
As evening falls, begin the trek to the summit of Erta Ale. At the crater rim, witness the remarkable spectacle of its active lava lake, where molten rock illuminates the night sky in one of the world’s most unforgettable volcanic landscapes. As volcanic activity changes over time, access to the main crater is always subject to current safety conditions. After your visit, descend to camp at a safe distance from the volcano for the night. (B,D)
Overnight – Camping at Erta Ale
Rise before dawn for a final visit to the summit of Erta Ale, where the early morning light offers another opportunity to observe the volcano’s active lava lake before beginning the descent.
After breakfast, depart the Danakil Depression and retrace your journey through the dramatic desert landscapes of the Afar Region, travelling via Lake Afdera before continuing to Semera Airport for your scheduled flight to Addis Ababa.
Upon arrival, transfer to your hotel before enjoying a farewell dinner at one of the city’s traditional restaurants. Celebrate the conclusion of your journey with a selection of regional Ethiopian cuisine accompanied by music and dance performances representing the country’s diverse cultural traditions. If you wish, sample Tej, Ethiopia’s traditional honey wine, for a fitting final taste of the country’s rich heritage. (B,D)
Overnight – Ramada Addis or similar
This morning you will transfer to the airport for your morning flight to Addis. Upon arrival, connect to your onward international flight. (B)
Download this tour’s PDF brochure and start your planning offline!
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**Please note that this tour can be organised on request for private departures.
* Pricing is subject to change at anytime until full payment has been received.
* A minimum of 4 adults is required to guarantee this departure.
A non-refundable deposit of $3500 AUD per person which covers the cost of your domestic flights is required to secure your place. Final payment is due no later than 60 days prior to departure. Travel insurance is mandatory for travelling with Crooked Compass. For full terms and conditions, please click here.
Small group tours providing intimate connections to gain a deeper understanding and emotional connection to the community, tribes, cultures and lands explored.
Exploring the world’s most remote reaches and challenging destinations requires a high level of expertise which can only be learned from first-hand experience. We know because we go.
In an ever-changing global landscape of rules, regulations and restrictions, rest-assured you are being looked after by those in the know. Given the remote regions that we explore, our passengers safety is our top priority.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
More about out Tour Styles.
Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.