I had a guinea pig as a pet when I was younger as many children did. He was cute but scratchy and awkward to cuddle. His name was Snowflake, named aptly due to the dominant white splash on his otherwise chestnut forehead. Never in a million years would I have dreamed of eating my childhood pet, but here in Ecuador, it is a delicacy. Eaten mainly for special occasions and celebrations, the locals here breed the guinea pigs in their homes. Some free range within the house (which I find extremely odd) and others in hutches outside.
I put my childhood fondness and thoughts of little Snowflake aside as we edge ever closer to a small town that serves the delicacy year round, and prepare to eat like a local.
As we weave through the small streets of Selva Alegre, which translates to Happy Jungle, I start to become excited. There is not one tourist in sight, and the streets of this tiny town ooze with local character and charm. Beaten up cars that look like they have battled the ages retire to the street curbs, toothless women dressed in traditional wide brimmed hats, their shoulders wrapped in black shawls most likely woven from llama wool waddle down the quiet streets, as the colourful buildings that tower over them flake aged and weather beaten paint like giant dandruff.
Making a sharp left hand turn, we have veered onto a street of sizzling BBQ’s. Aromas of sweet meat float in the air, thick smoke clogs your eyes making them sting and water. These smoky BBQ’s are slowly grilling groups of cuy. They are roasting away like mini spits. Cuy is the Spanish word for guinea pig (pronounced cwee).
We pull up outside Picanteria El Hueco and a lady in a plain apron proudly rotates her cuy that have been stretched out along a thick wooden stick which provide the guinea pigs with an oversized chin, (American Dad style). Their little paws curled over, their long teeth still in place bucked and looking rat like. They are barbequed a golden brown, looking almost caramelised and a fresh pale cuy is placed onto the sizzling coals.
Fascinated by their grotesque look, and how their bodies are all frozen into the same position, I venture inside this local restaurant and take a seat. I look around the concreate walls. Pictures and cartoons of cuy line the walls with speech bubbles in Spanish stating ‘Eat me, I’m healthy’. Newspaper articles explaining how cuy is good for you also feature as well as photos that look like they are from the 80’s of local cuy breeding heroes.
The room is filled with locals. Young children stare at us strange white people, even the adults are confused as to why I am here. Tacky Christmas tinsels and other festive decorations hang from the walls. This restaurant looks like it is from the 60’s. In the corner, a modern drinks fridge whirs and hums away looking extremely out of place against the retro wood panelling and plastic ivy plants.
A plate is placed down in front of me with my cuy. Already cut up, he is sitting on a bed of potatoes in a spicy sauce. I pick up a small piece of skin in my hands and take a bite. Crunch. Just like well cooked pork crackling. Salty, crispy, and cooked to perfection. The skin is delicious.
I move onto the leg. The meat is the colour of rabbit, the texture of BBQ chicken but rich like duck. I pick away at my cuy until he is nothing but a skeleton. Delicious!
The locals peer on watching my reaction as I immensely enjoy their local specialty. The meat tears away from the bones easily. Being super salty a drink at hand is necessary to help you continue through your meal. The potatoes and spicy sauce are too much for me. I leave them to the side and as soon as I say I am finished, my driver and guide swoop in like prey to finish off my leftovers.
As we leave the restaurant, a cuy that has been butterflied like a sausage has now begun roasting on the BBQ. Apparently you can request to have them cooked in various ways?<
Definitely not something for everyone, but as a food adventurer with my taste buds when I travel, this was definitely an enjoyable local meal I would suggest to anyone looking for something traditional and authentic to enjoy whilst in Ecuador.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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