Looking for the lesser-known side of Europe? Totally off the tourist radar, join us as we trek through the fabled and mysterious mountain region of Svaneti, Georgia.
Discover wild landscapes dotted with quaint stone villages, friendly locals who welcome you into their homes to fill you up on their flavoursome traditional cooking, defensive watchtowers that punctuate the scenery and local wine crafted by the Svan’s themselves.
An enchanting journey through untouched lands sharing with you the quieter, lesser-visited side of Europe, for those who love to explore outdoors.
Download this tour’s PDF brochure and start your planning offline!
Welcome to Georgia! Upon arrival in Tbilisi, you will be met at the airport and transferred to your hotel. The remainder of the day is yours at leisure.
Tbilisi’s cobblestoned old town reflects a long, complicated history, with periods under Persian and Russian rule. Its diverse architecture encompasses Eastern Orthodox churches, art nouveau buildings, and Soviet Modernist structures. Looming over the city are Narikala Fortress, a reconstructed 4th-century citadel, and Kartlis Deda, the iconic “Mother of Georgia” statue.
Overnight – Terrace Hotel or similar
This morning after breakfast, you will set off on foot to explore Tbilisi, starting at the 13th-century Metekhi Church, taking in the magnificent views over old Tbilisi.
Wander the narrow streets of the old districts of the city, full of traditional style colourful houses structured like terraces with patterned balconies, mixed with examples of modern architecture. The charm of the old town is overwhelming. Learn how Tbilisi is the only city where Georgians, Armenians, and Azerbaijanis all live peacefully alongside each other and how the city blends mosques, cathedrals, Russian churches, synagogues, and Zoroastrian temples with no religious conflict whatsoever.
Continue by taking a cable car up to the 4th century Narikala Fortress for panoramic views of the town below, before walking down to the historical domed sulphur bath area. Finally, visit the Golden Fund of the National Museum of Georgia (closed on Mondays), proving that Georgia is truly the land of the Golden Fleece. Dinner this evening is at a hidden local gem, within walking distance from your hotel with your guide. (B,D)
Overnight – Terrace Hotel or similar
This morning, drive to Mtskheta, the ancient capital and religious centre of Georgia. With a history dating back 3,000 years, you will visit the UNESCO World Heritage sites including the 6th-century Jvari Church and the 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, where the Robe of Christ is said to be buried.
Continue the drive to Imereti Province in West Georgia, a region known for its diverse landscapes ranging from the cool springs, green fields, and beautiful gardens of East Georgia’s Kartli Province. En route, visit the mining town of Chiatura, where around 20 Soviet-era cable cars remain active today! Finally, proceed to the pretty town of Kutaisi and visit the splendid 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral. (B)
Overnight – Argo Hotel or similar
This morning, explore the local farmers market where you’ll see the locals buying and selling their fresh produce. Afterwards, continue to Okatse Canyon (involves 3 hours of walking and approximately 1,000 steps).
In the afternoon, prepare for one of the most exciting parts of your journey – a scenic trip to Svaneti, the region known for its towering mountains, glaciers, and enduring ancient traditions. Your last destination for the day is Mestia, the centre of Upper Svaneti. (B)
Overnight – Family Hotel or similar
This morning, you will drive to Mulakhi village, where your trek begins towards Adishi village. The first half of your trek today is uphill on often shale and muddy surfaces, and the second half follows a gentle downhill decline with regular shade.
Trekking along the slopes of Mt. Tetnuldi at approximately 2,800m, you’ll witness breathtaking views of Tsaneri Glacier, Mt. Ushba (4,700m), and the Svaneti Range, featuring its highest peak, Mt. Laila (4,010m). Cross Ughviri Pass (2,480m) and then walk to the remote Adishi village (2,000m), where even in summer, its isolation makes it largely inaccessible for 4WD vehicles. With only a handful of families living in Adishi, tonight, you will be welcomed into their homes, where you’ll experience true Svanetian hospitality and enjoy traditional cuisine. (B,L,D)
Overnight – local guesthouse (basic shared facilities)
This morning, after bidding farewell to your host family, you will begin your trek to the remote village
of Iprari. Today’s trek begins with a gentle two-hour trail before a steep, challenging, and lengthy ascent. After crossing the pass, the descent is steep. This full-day trek takes you along a river, through beautiful Rhododendron-lined paths, past the remains of Kalde village, and across the scenic Chkhutnieri Pass (2,720m). The trek involves a river crossing, which may be done on horseback if the water level is high. Muddy and slippery conditions may occur if it has rained.
In the afternoon, immerse yourself in the unique cultures and traditional way of life of the Iprari people. (B,L,D)
Overnight – local guesthouse (basic shared facilities)
Today, trek to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed village of Ushguli, which, at 2,200m, is the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe. The village is distinguished by its ancient stone watch towers, offering a spectacular view of Mt. Shkhara (5,068m), the highest mountain in Georgia.
Since today’s trek is not overly long, you may wish to extend your adventure by hiking up the hill to Queen Tamar’s Tower before returning to Ushguli. (B,L,D)
Overnight – local guesthouse (basic shared facilities)
Depart from your guesthouse this morning and head towards Shkhara Glacier, at the base of Georgia’s highest mountain, Shkhara (5,068m). The glacier, at 2,500m, is the main water source of the Enguri River.
After reaching the glacier, trek back to Ushguli through alpine meadows brimming with wildflowers. From Ushguli, a vehicle will transfer you to Mestia (approx. 2 hrs). (B,L,D)
Overnight – Kala Hotel or similar
This morning after breakfast, leave the Svaneti region and drive to Zugdidi, where you will stop for lunch (payable locally). Continue to Kutaisi and visit the splendid 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral before joining a guided walking tour of the city. (B)
Overnight – Argo Hotel or similar
Today you will drive to Gori and visit the 1st millennium BC cave town of Uplistsikhe. Once passed through the great Silk Road, explore the tunnels, streets, wine cellars, and bakeries of this ancient, abandoned town. There is even a three-nave basilica church, a jail, and an amphitheatre carved into the rocky mountainside.
Visit the Stalin Museum, as former Soviet leader Josef Stalin was born in Gori, before continuing your drive to Tbilisi. Along the way, stop to visit a local family where you will have the opportunity to sample unique BIO wines produced by the traditional Georgian method in Kvevri (inscribed in the UNESCO intangible heritage list). This wine is listed as one of the unique wines at the Ritz Hotel in London.
This afternoon, check into your hotel in Tbilisi, and the remainder of the day is at your leisure. (B)
Overnight – The Terrace Hotel or similar
Today you travel to the Kakheti region, famous for its winemaking and some of the country’s warmest hospitality. Here, you can see both the snowy Caucasus mountains and the fertile valleys. First, you will visit Bodbe Nunnery (9th – 17th centuries), where St. Nino, the woman from Cappadocia who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th Century, is buried.
Continue to the beautiful, small town of Sighnaghi from the 18th century, which will impress you with its fortress walls and quaint houses with tiled roofs and decorated balconies. From here, enjoy picturesque views of the Alazani Valley and the Great Caucasus mountains. For lunch, visit a local family where you will become familiar with local peasant life. Enjoy a delicious homemade meal, explore their gardens and vineyards, and experience some of the warmest hospitality in Georgia! Then it’s time to get hands-on and participate in Churchkhela making (Georgian sweets).
On the way back to Tbilisi, you will visit a traditional Georgian wine cellar, where you will taste wine made in the traditional way, in a Kvevri (clay vessel). This winemaking method is inscribed in the UNESCO Intangible Heritage list. Return to Tbilisi in the afternoon. (B,L)
Overnight – Terrace Hotel or similar
This morning is yours at leisure until it is time for you to be transferred to the airport for your onward flight. (B)
** Download PDF itinerary for full details of hiking distances and gradings **
Download this tour’s PDF brochure and start your planning offline!
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**Please note that this tour can be organised on request for private departures.
* Pricing is subject to change at anytime until full payment has been received.
* A minimum of 2 adults is required to guarantee this departure.
A non-refundable deposit of $1000 AUD per person is required to secure your place. Final payment is due no later than 60 days prior to departure. Travel insurance is mandatory for travelling with Crooked Compass. For full terms and conditions, please click here.
Small group tours providing intimate connections to gain a deeper understanding and emotional connection to the community, tribes, cultures and lands explored.
Exploring the world’s most remote reaches and challenging destinations requires a high level of expertise which can only be learned from first-hand experience. We know because we go.
In an ever-changing global landscape of rules, regulations and restrictions, rest-assured you are being looked after by those in the know. Given the remote regions that we explore, our passengers safety is our top priority.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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