Papua New Guinea sits north of Australia’s Cape York, east of Indonesia, and largely off the map of mainstream travel. It holds more than 800 distinct language groups, some of the oldest continuous cultures on earth, rainforests that have never been logged, and reefs that marine biologists still find surprising. Visiting requires preparation and a tolerance for the unplanned. What it offers in return is depth that very few destinations can match.
The smoke rises before the village comes into view. It drifts through cloud forest above valleys that have sustained the same way of life for tens of thousands of years. Papua New Guinea announces itself slowly, on its own terms, and that is precisely the point.
This article covers the principal Papua New Guinea attractions across regions, the experiences that define a journey here, and the practical considerations that shape when and how to go. Whether the draw is the Kokoda Track, the coral architecture of Milne Bay, or a sing-sing in the Highlands, what follows is a grounded map of what the country holds.
PNG sits in an unusual position in the world’s imagination: widely referenced, rarely visited. It occupies the eastern half of the island of New Guinea, positioned just south of the equator between the Coral Sea and the Pacific Ocean. For those asking where Papua New Guinea sits relative to the region, it shares a land border with Indonesia to the west and lies roughly 160 kilometres north of Australia across the Torres Strait. Its geography alone tells a story of isolation, and isolation, over millennia, produces complexity.
The Kokoda Track is the name most Australians recognise. During the Pacific campaign of World War II, Australian and Papuan troops held the Owen Stanley Range against a Japanese advance along a jungle mountain track that runs 96 kilometres from Kokoda village to the coast near Port Moresby. The World War II history is inseparable from the landscape here. Walking the track is a serious undertaking, and anyone who has done it will tell you that the terrain makes the history legible in a way that no museum can replicate. The mud, the altitude, the narrowness of the ridgeline. The physical weight of the campaign becomes personal.
Tribal culture is the country’s other dominant presence. PNG has more distinct indigenous cultures and languages than any nation on earth. The sing-sing, a gathering of tribal groups in full ceremonial dress, represents one of the most concentrated expressions of cultural identity found anywhere. At the Goroka Show and the Mount Hagen Cultural Show, dozens of groups perform together, their headdresses layered with birds of paradise plumes, shells and ochre. These are not performances staged for tourists. They are living traditions, maintained with seriousness and pride.
The marine environment ranks among the world’s finest. Milne Bay, in the country’s south-east, is part of the Coral Triangle, the global centre of marine biodiversity. The coral reefs here support species densities that regularly draw marine biologists and serious divers from around the world. Above water, PNG’s wildlife is equally striking. The birds of paradise, found nowhere else in this variety and concentration, have been drawing naturalists since Alfred Russel Wallace catalogued them in the nineteenth century. Tree kangaroos move through moss forest in the Highlands. Crocodiles hold their territory in the river systems of the lowlands.
The country’s geography resists easy summary. PNG covers more than 460,000 square kilometres across the mainland and over 600 islands. Distances between regions are significant, infrastructure is limited outside the major centres, and each region has a distinct character. Understanding the country by region is the most useful way to plan.
Port Moresby is PNG’s capital and, for most visitors, the point of entry. Its reputation can precede it in ways that lead some travellers to underestimate what the city and its surrounds offer. The National Museum and Art Gallery holds one of the most significant collections of Melanesian artefacts in the world, covering ceremonial objects, traditional dress and cultural history across the country’s many groups. It earns more than a passing visit.
The city sits close to Varirata National Park, a short drive from the centre and one of the most accessible bird watching sites in the country. Varirata is a reliable location for birds of paradise and a manageable introduction to the Highlands cloud forest environment. For travellers preparing to walk the Kokoda Track, Port Moresby is also the departure point. The trailhead at Owers’ Corner lies about an hour from the city, and the logistics of the track begin here.
Port Moresby has beaches, reef, and the kind of layered urban character that comes from a city still finding its form. Taken on its own terms, it rewards curiosity.
The Highlands region occupies the backbone of the mainland, a series of mountain ranges and fertile valleys sitting at altitude, where mornings bring mist and afternoons bring sharp light across kunai grasslands. Mount Hagen is the Highlands’ principal city and the staging point for most travel into the region. The surrounding landscape is agricultural, terraced and heavily settled; the Highlands are the most populous part of the country.
The Goroka Show, held each September in the Eastern Highlands town of Goroka, and the Mount Hagen Cultural Show, held in August, are among the most significant cultural events in the Pacific. Dozens of tribal groups gather in elaborate ceremonial dress to dance, compete and celebrate. For travellers whose timing allows it, attending either event anchors an understanding of PNG’s cultural breadth in a way that days of independent exploration cannot compress.
Beyond the shows, the Highlands offer trekking through cloud forest, stays in remote cultural villages, and access to some of the country’s most biodiverse bird habitats. The Tari Basin in the Southern Highlands is a recognised location for birds of paradise, including the King of Saxony and Blue Bird of Paradise, drawing serious birders from across the world. Travel in the remote Highlands requires local guidance and patience with logistics. It repays both.
Milne Bay Province occupies PNG’s south-eastern tip and extends across a chain of islands into the Solomon Sea. It is, by any serious measure, one of the world’s great diving destinations. The reefs here are dense, healthy and varied, with coral walls dropping into deep water and visibility that routinely exceeds 30 metres. WWII wrecks, including aircraft and vessels, lie at recreational diving depths in several locations, adding a layer of history to the underwater landscape.
Tufi, to the north in Oro Province, sits within a network of fjords carved into the cape’s coastline, a geography unique in the Pacific. The combination of fjord scenery, coral gardens and accessible reef makes it a strong alternative for divers who want to avoid the more established circuits. Remote island communities in Milne Bay continue to live by patterns tied to the sea, and village stays in this region offer a direct, unhurried experience of coastal Melanesian culture.
New Ireland Province lies north-east of the mainland, a narrow, 300-kilometre-long island province with a distinctive cultural tradition. The Malagan mortuary ceremonies, and the carved masks associated with them, are among the most sophisticated art traditions in the Pacific. The province’s reef and open-water fishing are exceptional, with sport fishing in particular drawing dedicated visitors. The Duke of York Islands, positioned between New Ireland and East New Britain, have calm, clear water and a pace distinct from anywhere else in the country. Mahur Island and the islands surrounding Kavieng offer some of PNG’s most unspoiled reef environments.
The Kokoda Track is, for many who come to PNG, the reason for coming. It is worth being direct about what it involves. The 96-kilometre route crosses the Owen Stanley Range through dense tropical rainforest, at altitudes between 50 and 2,200 metres, with cumulative ascent and descent measured in the thousands of metres. The trail traverses rivers, including the Kumusi, climbs ridgelines that narrow to single-file paths, and passes through villages whose names appear in the historical accounts of the campaign. Kokoda village itself sits at the northern end, a modest settlement with an airstrip and a weight of association that most visitors find difficult to articulate on arrival.
Completing the track typically takes between eight and twelve days. The physical demand is serious, and the emotional register of walking in the footsteps of the 1942 campaign is something walkers consistently describe as distinct from any other experience they have had. It should be attempted only with a properly equipped guided group and a realistic appraisal of physical fitness.
The range of what PNG offers sits across a wider spectrum than most travellers anticipate. The country rewards those who go looking for more than one kind of experience.
The Kokoda Track is the defining trek, but it is not the only one. The Highlands contain walking routes through cloud forest and between villages that give access to landscapes and communities that roads do not reach. Trekking in the PNG Highlands requires local knowledge for route-finding and community relationships; experienced local guides are not optional here. For those whose fitness or time does not extend to Kokoda, shorter routes in the Highlands and around Varirata offer genuine immersion without the full commitment of the range crossing.
Milne Bay is the reference point, but PNG’s diving is distributed across the country. Tufi’s fjord reefs, the wrecks of Rabaul in East New Britain, the coral gardens around Kavieng in New Ireland, and the passages around the Louisiade Archipelago all offer world-class underwater environments. The diversity of dive sites across different experience levels is considerable. Snorkelling in the same regions gives access to the shallower reef structures, which in PNG can be as dense and varied as the deeper walls. For travellers whose primary interest is the reef, PNG sits alongside the best destinations in the world, not behind them.
The sing-sings at the Goroka Show and the Mount Hagen Cultural Show are high-water marks, but cultural engagement in PNG runs deeper than event attendance. Village stays in the Highlands, along the Kokoda corridor and in the island provinces give travellers direct contact with communities whose traditions remain intact and active. These are not reconstructed experiences. They involve sitting with people whose way of life has continuity across generations, sharing food, and understanding, at least partially, how a world organised around entirely different values actually functions. Indigenous traditions here are practised with seriousness; approaching them with equivalent seriousness is the appropriate register.
PNG holds an extraordinary concentration of bird species found nowhere else on earth. The birds of paradise alone account for more than 40 species, and the Highlands are their primary habitat. The Tari Basin, the forests around Mount Hagen, and the trails through Varirata National Park are established bird watching locations. Guided birding in the Highlands, where local guides know the territories and call times of individual species, produces encounters that wildlife photographers and naturalists routinely describe as among the best of their careers. Early morning is the hour.
The island provinces and the north coast offer conditions that have barely registered in mainstream surf and fishing circuits. Surfing around the remote islands of New Ireland and in the breaks off the Bismarck Sea coastline means waves with no crowds and logistics that require planning. Kayaking through the fjords of Tufi is a legitimate alternative to diving for experiencing the coastal geography at water level. Fishing, both sport and reef, is exceptional across the island provinces, with the waters between New Ireland and East New Britain producing consistent results for serious anglers.
Beyond the birds, PNG’s wildlife rewards those who travel slowly. Tree kangaroos inhabit the cloud forests of the Highlands, and patient guided walks produce sightings. The river systems of the lowlands hold saltwater crocodiles at scales that few other countries match. Marine encounters in Milne Bay extend to dugongs, sea turtles and, seasonally, whale sharks. The concentration of endemic species across both terrestrial and marine environments means wildlife observation is woven into almost every experience in the country, rather than confined to a specific zone or reserve.
Papua New Guinea is a year-round destination, but the best time to visit depends on what you want to experience. With landscapes ranging from tropical islands and coral reefs to rugged mountains and dense rainforest, weather conditions vary considerably across the country.
For most travellers, May to October is considered the ideal time to visit. This is generally the dry season, bringing more stable weather to the Highlands and making trekking routes such as the Kokoda Track safer and more enjoyable. Cooler temperatures and clearer skies also create excellent conditions for exploring villages, cultural sites, and mountain landscapes.
If diving is your priority, June through September offers some of the clearest underwater visibility, particularly around Milne Bay and the island provinces. Calm seas and excellent marine life make this one of the finest periods for snorkelling and diving.
Travellers hoping to experience Papua New Guinea’s extraordinary cultural festivals should plan well ahead. The Mount Hagen Cultural Show, usually held in August, brings together hundreds of tribes in an unforgettable celebration of traditional dance, music and ceremonial dress. In September, the equally spectacular Goroka Show showcases the rich cultural diversity of the Eastern Highlands. Accommodation around both events books out well in advance, so early planning is essential.
The wet season, from November to April, brings heavier rainfall across much of the country. During this period, the Kokoda Track becomes significantly more challenging and, at times, unsafe due to muddy and unstable conditions. Some roads in the Highlands can also become difficult to access. Coastal and island regions remain accessible, however, and some divers enjoy the different underwater conditions this time of year.
No matter when you travel, Papua New Guinea rewards those who arrive prepared. Infrastructure outside Port Moresby and the major provincial centres is relatively limited, and domestic flight schedules can change due to weather and operational conditions. Remote regions, particularly trekking destinations such as the Kokoda Track, require appropriate equipment, experienced local guides, and flexibility in your itinerary.
While independent travel is possible in some areas, most first-time visitors find that travelling with an experienced operator provides a far smoother and more rewarding experience. Guided journeys remove the complexity of logistics, provide access to remote communities through established local relationships, and allow you to immerse yourself in Papua New Guinea’s remarkable cultures and landscapes with confidence.
If you’re ready to discover one of the world’s last truly wild destinations, explore our Papua New Guinea tours and let us take care of the details while you focus on the adventure.
Visa information: Visa requirements can change, so we recommend checking the latest entry requirements with the Papua New Guinea Immigration & Citizenship Authority or the Australian Government’s Smartraveller website before you travel.
This is not a country for passive observation. PNG asks something of the people who visit, whether it is the physical commitment of the Kokoda Track, the patience required by remote travel, or simply the willingness to spend time in communities where the rhythms of life are entirely different from anything familiar. What it gives in return is encounters with place and culture at a depth that polished destinations have long since stopped offering.
If PNG is on your horizon, Crooked Compass offers guided itineraries that handle the logistics so the country itself remains the focus.
The Kokoda Track draws the largest number of internationally motivated visitors, particularly Australians with a connection to the WWII campaign. The Goroka Show and Mount Hagen Cultural Show are the country’s most significant cultural events and attract travellers who time their visits specifically around them. Milne Bay and the surrounding reef systems are the primary draw for divers. Varirata National Park near Port Moresby sees consistent visitor numbers as an accessible introduction to the country’s bird life and forest environments.
PNG has a complex safety profile that varies significantly by region and by how travel is structured. Port Moresby and some urban areas carry elevated risk for independent travellers, and standard precautions apply. Remote and rural areas, paradoxically, are often more straightforward to navigate safely when travelling with experienced local guides who have established community relationships. Guided travel, particularly with operators who work regularly in the country, substantially reduces the variables. Checking current government travel advisories before finalising plans is essential.
The dry season, running from May to October, is the best period for the Kokoda Track and Highland trekking. August and September align with the Mount Hagen Cultural Show and Goroka Show respectively, making those months strong choices for travellers whose primary interest is cultural immersion. Diving in Milne Bay and the island provinces is strong from June through September. The wet season, November to April, makes the Kokoda Track significantly more demanding and can restrict movement in the Highlands, though coastal and island travel remains viable.
The Kokoda Track is a 96-kilometre trail crossing the Owen Stanley Range in Oro Province, running from Owers’ Corner near Port Moresby to Kokoda village. During the 1942 Pacific campaign, Australian and Papuan forces fought a sustained defensive and counter-offensive action along this route, and the track carries significant historical weight for Australians in particular. Physically, it is demanding by any standard. The terrain involves repeated steep ascents and descents, river crossings, narrow ridgeline paths and dense tropical rainforest. Altitude varies from near sea level to over 2,200 metres. Most guided groups complete it in eight to twelve days. Good cardiovascular fitness, appropriate footwear and equipment, and an experienced guide are not optional. It is not a casual trek, but for those who are adequately prepared, it is one of the most significant walks available anywhere. Kokoda Track tour page
The range is considerable. The Goroka Show in September and the Mount Hagen Cultural Show in August are the most concentrated expressions of the country’s tribal diversity, bringing together dozens of groups in ceremonial dress. Village stays in the Highlands, along the Kokoda corridor, and in the island provinces offer a slower, more sustained form of cultural engagement, sitting with communities whose traditions remain intact and active. Markets in most provincial centres provide direct contact with local life and produce. Across the country, indigenous traditions including mask-making in New Ireland, ceremony and song throughout the Highlands, and the material culture of the coastal communities are practised with seriousness and are accessible to travellers who approach them with equivalent respect.
PNG’s diving is ranked among the world’s best by the diving community, not as a promotional claim but as a consistent assessment from those who have dived widely. Milne Bay sits within the Coral Triangle and its species diversity reflects that. Visibility is high, coral health is strong, and the combination of reef walls, bommies, WWII wrecks and open-water passages gives divers a range of environments across a single trip. Compared with the busier circuits in Indonesia or the Maldives, PNG diving involves far fewer boats on any given site. Tufi’s fjord reef and the passages around Kavieng in New Ireland offer conditions that are less well-known but equally strong. For serious divers, PNG represents access to an environment that has not been worn smooth by volume.
ustralian passport holders must obtain a visa before travelling to Papua New Guinea. Tourist visas can be applied for online through the Papua New Guinea eVisa system. Travellers are also required to complete the Papua New Guinea Digital Arrival Card (DAC) within 72 hours before arrival. As entry requirements may change, always check the latest advice from the Papua New Guinea Immigration and Citizenship Service Authority or the Australian Government’s Smartraveller website before travelling.
PNG’s wildlife is concentrated, endemic and, in many cases, found nowhere else on earth. The birds of paradise are the headline species, with more than 40 of the world’s 44 species found across the country, from the Highlands cloud forests to the lowland rainforests. Tree kangaroos inhabit the upper montane forests of the Highlands. Saltwater crocodiles are present in the river systems and coastal wetlands. Marine life in Milne Bay and the island provinces includes sea turtles, dugongs, whale sharks on a seasonal basis, and a density of reef fish that reflects the Coral Triangle’s status as the global centre of marine biodiversity. In the tropical rainforests, cassowaries move through the understorey of the lowland forest corridors. Wildlife observation in PNG is not confined to reserves or specific encounter points; it is woven into the landscape throughout.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
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