High in the heart of Papua New Guinea lies one of the world’s last great frontiers: the Highlands. This mountainous interior is unlike anywhere else on earth. Remote valleys, mist-cloaked peaks, and communities that have lived on these lands for millennia make it a destination that challenges, rewards, and transforms those who venture here. For travellers seeking cultural authenticity, the Highlands represent a rare chance to engage with traditions that remain alive and evolving, not preserved for show but lived every day. For a broader look at Papua New Guinea as a whole, explore our range of tours in Papua New Guinea.
Geographically, the Highlands stretch across six provinces: Enga, Hela, Jiwaka, Western Highlands, Eastern Highlands, and Chimbu. This region is carved by rugged peaks and fertile valleys, creating natural boundaries that have allowed hundreds of distinct clans and communities to flourish. Unlike the coastal areas of Papua New Guinea, which encountered outside influence earlier, the Highlands were largely isolated until the mid-twentieth century. This isolation has preserved languages, rituals, and social systems that feel far removed from the modern world yet are central to the identity of Melanesia.
The cultural richness here is unparalleled. Each province holds its own festivals, ceremonies, and ways of life. The Huli Wigmen of Hela are famed for their elaborate wigs crafted from human hair, a symbol of identity and status. In Chimbu, body painting traditions turn ceremonies into vibrant displays of artistry and spirituality. The Goroka and Mount Hagen Shows bring dozens of tribes together in some of the largest cultural gatherings in the world, offering travellers a glimpse into traditions that have been handed down through generations. Yet beyond the festivals, the essence of the Highlands is found in the small moments: a shared meal in a village, a child’s laughter echoing through a valley, the warmth of welcome from a community rarely visited by outsiders.
This guide has been created for the cultural traveller who wants more than a fleeting encounter. Here you will find not only the stories and history of the Highlands but also the practical advice to experience them responsibly. We cover everything from how to reach these remote provinces, to how to prepare for the realities of travel, to the importance of photography ethics and cultural respect. At Crooked Compass, we believe that meaningful travel is about more than just being there; it is about engaging with care, curiosity, and humility.
The Highlands are not an easy destination, but for those willing to embrace both their challenges and their beauty, they offer one of the most significant cultural journeys on the planet.
Would you be willing to embrace a journey where comfort is uncertain, but authenticity is guaranteed?
If you’re still unsure if this region suits your travel style. read our guide on Is Papua New Guinea Right for Me?.
2. Understanding PNG Highland Cultures
The Highlands of Papua New Guinea are one of the most culturally diverse regions in the world. While the coastal areas came into contact with outsiders earlier in history, the Highlands remained largely unknown to the outside world until the 1930s, when explorers first flew over the rugged interior and realised entire populations had lived there in isolation for millennia. That separation allowed languages, traditions, and social structures to evolve independently, creating a region where culture is not just preserved but lived every day.
For more cultural context across the country, see our article on Papua New Guinea culture facts and travel insights.
For centuries, highland communities lived in fertile valleys cut off by towering mountains. The isolation fostered strong clan-based societies, where land, kinship, and ritual formed the core of life. Agricultural practices such as sweet potato cultivation became central to survival, while elaborate ceremonial systems developed to mark alliances, marriages, and peace agreements. These societies were complex long before outside contact, with established laws, trade, and spiritual systems. Understanding this history is key to appreciating the resilience of the people today.
Among the many cultural groups in the Highlands, several stand out for their influence and visibility. The Huli of Hela Province are known for their striking wigs made of human hair, often decorated with feathers and ochre. These wigs are not simply ornaments but carry deep cultural meaning, representing identity, strength, and tradition.
The Melpa of the Western Highlands are renowned for their sophisticated exchange systems, where pigs are central to both economy and ceremony. These exchanges underpin alliances and maintain balance between clans, offering travellers a glimpse into an ancient social order that still governs relationships today.
In the Enga Province, communities are proud of their elaborate festivals and traditional forms of body decoration. Enga culture also holds strong memories of highland warfare, balanced with modern peace-making traditions that continue to shape the region.
The Dani people, often associated with the wider highland region of Melanesia, are another example of how cultural identity is closely tied to land, ritual, and resilience. Each group has its own language, customs, and leadership structures, meaning no two encounters in the Highlands are ever the same.
Traditional life in the Highlands revolves around community and land. Subsistence farming remains widespread, with sweet potatoes, taro, and yams forming dietary staples. Ceremonial life is equally important, with sing-sings; gatherings of song, dance, and costume marking major occasions.
Modern influences, however, are increasingly visible. Mobile phones, schools, and markets selling imported goods sit alongside traditional homes and community gatherings. Rather than erasing tradition, many communities have adapted, weaving modern tools into their existing cultural frameworks. This blending is part of what makes travel here so fascinating: you witness cultures that are not frozen in time, but evolving while holding firm to their roots.
For travellers, understanding cultural protocols is essential. A respectful greeting, offered through your local guide, opens doors. Photography should never be assumed; always seek permission before raising a camera. Certain ceremonies, sacred sites, or individuals may be off-limits, and respecting these rules is non-negotiable. Dress modestly, avoid excessive display of wealth, and follow the guidance of your hosts.
In the Highlands, hospitality is deeply ingrained, but it comes with expectations of mutual respect. Travellers who arrive with curiosity, patience, and humility are welcomed, while those who ignore customs risk closing not only their own experience but opportunities for those who follow.
Could you embrace the patience required to follow local rhythms, knowing that respect opens far more doors than speed ever will?
Cultural tourism in the Highlands offers a chance to connect with some of the world’s most resilient and unique communities. Yet it is also a privilege. Travellers are not simply spectators but guests in places that hold deep cultural and spiritual meaning. Respect is the foundation for genuine exchange. By approaching communities with sensitivity, you ensure that traditions are honoured and that your presence contributes positively.
Understanding the cultures of the Highlands is not only about appreciating difference. It is about recognising the shared humanity at the core of every community; the values of family, land, and connection that resonate across cultures. When you travel here with respect, you are not just observing; you are engaging in a dialogue that enriches both visitor and host.
The Southern Highlands are home to the Huli people, one of Papua New Guinea’s most recognisable cultural groups. The Huli Wigmen are renowned for their elaborate wigs, crafted from their own hair and decorated with feathers, ochre, and natural fibres. These wigs are not just decorative; they are markers of identity, strength, and social standing. Visitors who meet the Wigmen in the Tari Basin quickly learn that these traditions are as alive today as they were centuries ago.
The Tari Basin itself is the cultural heartland of the Huli. Reaching this region requires patience, as flights are limited and schedules can change unexpectedly. Local guides are essential for navigating the logistics, from transport to introductions within villages. Once there, travellers are often invited to witness sing-sings; ceremonies of dance, song, and performance where communities come together to celebrate and preserve tradition. These gatherings provide unforgettable opportunities for photography, though permission is always required and best arranged through your guide.
Accommodation in the Southern Highlands is basic compared to urban centres, but lodge stays and guesthouses provide comfortable access to the region. Photography opportunities abound, from the detailed artistry of the wigs to the landscapes that frame the villages. Cultural sensitivity is crucial: always ask before photographing individuals, especially elders, and follow your guide’s advice on when to observe rather than capture.
The Western Highlands are most famous for the Mount Hagen Cultural Show, one of the largest tribal gatherings in the world. Each August, dozens of tribes from across the Highlands assemble in a riot of colour, costume, and song. For travellers, the spectacle is unmatched, but it is also a time to remember that these performances carry deep cultural meaning. Respectful observation and photography, guided by local experts, allow you to experience the event authentically.
Beyond the festival, the Western Highlands are home to the Melpa people, whose traditions of ceremonial pig exchanges continue to anchor community life. These exchanges are as much about social bonds and peacekeeping as they are about wealth, offering visitors a glimpse into systems of reciprocity that underpin highland society.
Coffee is another highlight of the region. The fertile soils make the Western Highlands one of Papua New Guinea’s premier coffee-growing areas. Plantation tours often combine agricultural insights with cultural storytelling, as coffee production is woven into the fabric of highland identity.
Mount Hagen is relatively accessible, with more reliable flights and infrastructure than some other provinces. Accommodation ranges from hotels in town to eco-lodges in surrounding villages. For photographers, the contrasts between festival energy, rural daily life, and coffee landscapes provide endless material. Always remain mindful that outside festival times, daily life is not a performance, and cameras should be used with care.
The Eastern Highlands are synonymous with the Goroka Show, held each September. This event rivals Mount Hagen in scale and reputation, bringing together tribes for performances that showcase the diversity of the region. For photographers and cultural travellers, the Goroka Show is a highlight, but preparation is essential. Accommodation fills quickly, and securing local guides in advance ensures you get the most from the experience.
The Eastern Highlands also carry a strong coffee culture, with smaller-scale farms and cooperatives offering tours. Visitors can learn how coffee moves from bean to cup, often in family-run settings where cultural traditions shape the farming process.
Markets are another cornerstone of life here. Goroka’s bustling markets are filled with produce, handicrafts, and everyday goods. Visiting with a guide helps navigate the stalls respectfully, as markets are not staged for tourists but serve as vital community hubs.
Accommodation in Goroka ranges from modest hotels to locally run guesthouses. Photography opportunities span the vibrant showgrounds, lush coffee fields, and candid moments in the markets. Sensitivity is key, especially in busy areas where not everyone will want their photo taken.
Enga is one of the most traditional provinces in the Highlands, where many cultural practices remain strong despite outside influences. The province is known for its elaborate festivals and ceremonies, which often include dramatic body decorations and storytelling through song and dance.
Enga also holds a unique place in the history of highland warfare. For generations, disputes between clans shaped daily life, but modern peace-making traditions have transformed conflict into rituals of reconciliation. Travellers who engage with local guides often hear firsthand stories of these shifts, deepening their understanding of the resilience and adaptability of Enga culture. Would you trade familiar comforts for the chance to hear stories of reconciliation told by those who lived through them?
Remote village visits in Enga provide some of the most immersive experiences in Papua New Guinea. These journeys require patience, as infrastructure is limited, but the rewards are immense. Guests often stay in simple lodges or community-run accommodations that provide not only shelter but also access to everyday life.
For photographers, Enga is a treasure trove of striking visuals: painted bodies, ritual artefacts, and dramatic highland scenery. Yet cultural sensitivity is even more critical here, as communities are often less accustomed to tourism than in Goroka or Mount Hagen. Always follow your guide’s lead, ask before taking portraits, and remember that some traditions are meant only for those within the culture.
Each province of the Highlands offers something distinct, from the wigs of the Huli to the pig exchanges of the Melpa, the showgrounds of Goroka, and the resilient traditions of Enga. The best cultural experiences are those that balance participation with observation, guided by locals who know how to navigate protocols and ensure respect.
Access across the Highlands varies, with Mount Hagen and Goroka offering more developed facilities (developed is still be used lightly though) while Tari and Enga remain more challenging. Accommodation also ranges widely, from modest hotels to rustic lodges and homestays. For those prepared to adapt, these differences become part of the adventure.
Photography across the Highlands is both rewarding and sensitive. Festivals may invite more open documentation, but everyday life requires patience and permission. The key is to approach every encounter with humility, allowing people to guide the story rather than imposing your own.
Travelling through the Highlands is not always simple, but it is always meaningful. Each province provides a chance to step into a cultural landscape that is both deeply traditional and dynamically evolving, offering travellers one of the richest cultural journeys on the planet.
Discover more about engaging with tribal communities respectfully in our feature on meeting the tribes of Papua New Guinea.
Festivals in Papua New Guinea’s Highlands are among the most powerful cultural gatherings on earth. They are not staged spectacles created for outsiders, but genuine celebrations where communities reaffirm identity, pass traditions to the next generation, and share pride in their heritage. For travellers, attending one of these events is a privilege. Done with respect, it offers unmatched insight into the spirit of the Highlands.
Held every September, the Goroka Show is one of the largest cultural events in the Pacific. It brings together dozens of tribes from across the Highlands for a grand sing-sing, a performance of song, dance, and costume that has become an international drawcard. The sight of hundreds of performers in elaborate body paint, feathered headdresses, and traditional attire is unforgettable.
For travellers, the Goroka Show is both exhilarating and overwhelming. Preparation is essential: accommodation books out months in advance, and reliable local guides make navigating the festival far easier. The energy can be chaotic, but with patience you will find moments of calm where performers share stories, explain their costumes, or invite you to observe rituals. Photography is welcomed in many areas, but consent remains crucial. Always ask before taking close portraits, and respect when people decline. Are you ready to take part in the energy of a thousand voices, not as a spectator, but as a respectful guest in someone else’s celebration?
Taking place in August, the Mount Hagen Show is often considered the Highlands’ premier cultural event. Like Goroka, it brings together dozens of tribes, but the atmosphere is distinct. The Mount Hagen Show was originally created as a peace-building exercise, giving rival clans a space to gather in harmony. Today, it continues as a vibrant celebration of unity through culture.
Tribal participation is at the heart of the show. Each group performs with pride, showcasing dances and songs passed down for generations. The colour, sound, and movement can feel overwhelming, yet every performance carries meaning. Travellers should come ready to learn, not just watch. Local guides can explain the symbolism behind dances, costumes, and rituals, deepening your understanding of what you are witnessing.
Accommodation in Mount Hagen ranges from hotels to lodges, though availability is limited around festival time. Booking early is essential. For photographers, the Mount Hagen Show provides opportunities for striking images, but again, permission and sensitivity are non-negotiable.
Smaller but deeply authentic, the Enga Cultural Show takes place in Wabag, the provincial capital. This event provides a rare chance to witness ceremonies that remain strong in a region less visited by outsiders. Here, traditions such as dramatic body painting and storytelling through dance are showcased with pride.
Enga’s show feels more intimate than Goroka or Mount Hagen, giving travellers the space to connect with individuals and learn about the resilience of local traditions. Logistics are more challenging — accommodation is basic, and travel to the province can be unpredictable — but for those willing to make the effort, the rewards are immense.
While the major shows are powerful, some of the most memorable experiences occur at the village level. Visitors may be invited to smaller sing-sings, initiation ceremonies, or community celebrations. These are deeply personal and not staged for tourism. If you are fortunate enough to attend, approach with humility. Let your guide lead, ask before taking photographs, and remember that sometimes the most respectful choice is to watch without your camera.
Highland life is closely tied to the land, and agricultural cycles are marked by ceremonies and celebrations. Planting and harvest seasons often involve rituals that blend spiritual beliefs with practical life. While less publicised than the major cultural shows, these events offer travellers a glimpse into the rhythms that sustain highland communities.
For those who want to attend the big festivals, planning well ahead is essential. Accommodation in Goroka and Mount Hagen fills quickly, and flights around festival times are prone to delays. Buffer days before and after events are strongly advised. Work with local tour operators who have established community relationships to ensure respectful access and reliable logistics.
For photographers and cultural travellers, the key to experiencing festivals is balance: capturing the vibrancy without intruding, celebrating the spectacle while honouring the meaning. These events are not just performances; they are declarations of identity, resilience, and pride. By approaching them with curiosity and respect, you witness not only the diversity of Papua New Guinea’s Highlands but also the strength of traditions that continue to thrive.
To explore more once-in-a-lifetime activities, see our post on 6 travel experiences you can only have in Papua New Guinea.
Travelling through the Highlands of Papua New Guinea is not only about witnessing festivals or visiting tribal communities. The region offers a wide range of adventure activities that allow travellers to connect with the land, its people, and its traditions on a deeper level. These experiences are not designed for mass tourism; they are intimate, often challenging, and always rewarding for those seeking authenticity.
The rugged terrain of the Highlands makes trekking one of the most immersive ways to experience the region. Trails wind through fertile valleys, over mountain ridges, and into remote villages where hospitality remains central to community life. Trekkers often find that the journey itself – walking alongside locals, stopping in villages, and seeing everyday life unfold – is as enriching as the destination. Treks vary in difficulty, from shorter walks near Goroka or Mount Hagen to multi-day adventures in the more remote Enga or Tari regions. Accommodation is basic, usually in village guesthouses or community lodges, but the cultural exchange is invaluable.
Coffee is the economic backbone of the Highlands, and visiting a plantation offers insight into both agriculture and culture. Don’t expect a high polished tour though, a factory worker with poor English will likely walk you around and point out various parts of the process with limited communication. This still makes for an interesting experience and your taste buds will thank you! Many plantations are family-run, where generations have cultivated beans in rich volcanic soil. Tours typically include demonstrations of planting, harvesting, and roasting, often followed by a shared cup brewed in the traditional way. These visits highlight how coffee production is intertwined with cultural identity, making it more than just a commodity. For travellers, it is a chance to support local growers while learning about one of Papua New Guinea’s most important exports.
Some communities still practise traditional hunting and gathering techniques, and visitors may be invited to observe or participate in demonstrations. This could include learning how traps are set, seeing how bush foods are foraged, or watching the preparation of meals cooked in earth ovens. These experiences provide a glimpse into skills that have sustained highland peoples for centuries. Participation is always guided by local hosts, ensuring practices are shared respectfully and with context.
Handcrafts such as bilums (woven bags), wood carvings, and body decorations are integral to highland culture. Visitors can join workshops where artisans teach weaving, carving, or painting techniques. These sessions are more than a souvenir-making exercise; they are cultural exchanges where stories and traditions are passed along with skills. Purchasing directly from artisans ensures your contribution supports families and communities while preserving traditional knowledge.
For travellers seeking deeper cultural immersion, homestays provide a rare chance to live alongside a highland family. While facilities are incredibly simple, the reward is a genuine exchange of daily life: sharing meals, helping with chores, and learning directly from your hosts. Homestays create a level of understanding that no short visit can provide. Respecting household protocols, contributing fairly, and showing genuine interest are key to making these stays mutually enriching. Do not expect power or running water.
The Highlands are home to some of the world’s most extraordinary bird species, including several types of Birds of Paradise. Early morning walks with local guides often reveal a kaleidoscope of birdlife set against dramatic landscapes. Bird watching in the Highlands is not just about spotting rare species; it is about appreciating the role of nature in local cultural beliefs. Many birds hold spiritual significance, making these encounters culturally as well as ecologically important.
For photography enthusiasts, the Highlands provide both inspiration and challenge. Some local guides and operators offer cultural photography workshops, teaching travellers not only technical skills but also the ethics of photographing Indigenous communities. These workshops often include lessons on seeking consent, respecting sacred sites, and capturing stories with authenticity. The focus is on creating meaningful images that honour the people and places being documented.
Cultural Lodges with Community Partnerships
In several provinces, travellers can stay in cultural lodges that are directly linked with local communities. These lodges provide simple but comfortable facilities, often built using traditional designs, while ensuring that part of your stay directly benefits the surrounding villages. Meals are typically prepared with local produce, and hosts may arrange cultural demonstrations or storytelling sessions. Staying in these lodges is one of the best ways to balance comfort with authentic connection, while knowing your visit contributes to community livelihoods.
Guesthouses by Region
In towns such as Mount Hagen, Goroka, and Wabag, small guesthouses provide straightforward but reliable accommodation. Facilities are usually modest; think basic rooms, shared bathrooms, and limited amenities but the hospitality makes up for what they lack in luxury. These guesthouses are practical bases for attending festivals, exploring markets, or preparing for onward travel. Booking early around major events such as the Mount Hagen or Goroka Shows is essential, as demand often exceeds supply.
Camping and Trekking Accommodation
For travellers exploring on foot, camping remains the most flexible option. Multi-day treks through Enga or the Tari Basin often involve overnights in tents or in simple trekking shelters provided by villages. Facilities are basic, often with bucket showers and shared long-drop toilets, but the reward is waking up surrounded by highland scenery far from the main roads. Travelling with an experienced operator ensures your camping arrangements are safe, culturally appropriate, and respectful of local protocols.
Homestay Opportunities and Cultural Protocols
Homestays offer a level of immersion unmatched by lodges or hotels. Living with a local family allows you to experience daily routines firsthand, from sharing meals to observing traditional practices. Facilities are basic; limited electricity, simple bedding, and outdoor toilets but the warmth of welcome is exceptional. Respecting household customs is critical: follow your host’s guidance, dress modestly, and be mindful of cultural expectations. Many homestays operate on a contribution basis arranged by your guide, ensuring your presence directly supports the families who host you.
Could you embrace a simpler way of living, where connection outweighs convenience?
Climate Considerations
The Highlands sit at higher altitudes than the coast, with cooler evenings and crisp mornings that can surprise travellers expecting tropical heat. Daytime temperatures are comfortable, but nights often drop sharply, especially in Goroka, Mount Hagen, and Enga. Pack warm layers for evenings, lightweight clothing for the day, and a reliable rain jacket to handle sudden showers. Sturdy walking shoes are essential, as village paths and festival grounds can be muddy.
Cultural Gift Protocols and Appropriate Items
Gift-giving is an important aspect of highland hospitality. Visitors are sometimes asked to contribute when visiting villages, and arriving with thoughtful items shows respect. Practical offerings such as school supplies, fishing gear, or cooking tools are welcomed. Your guide can advise on what is most appropriate for the community you are visiting. Avoid giving sweets, plastics, or single-use items, as these can create waste or unintended consequences. Contributions arranged through your guide are often the most respectful way to support a community.
Photography Equipment Recommendations
For those planning to capture their journey, pack carefully. A camera with a quiet shutter is preferred, especially during ceremonies where noise can be disruptive. A versatile telephoto lens allows respectful distance while still capturing detail. Bring extra batteries and memory cards, as power sources are limited in rural areas. A waterproof bag or dry case protects your gear from sudden rain. Most importantly, remember that the camera is a tool for connection, not intrusion. Always seek permission before photographing people, and be prepared to put the lens away when asked.
Medical and Safety Preparations
Travel through the Highlands requires a well-stocked personal medical kit. Include basics such as antiseptic, bandages, and pain relief, as well as insect repellent and water purification tablets. Carry any personal prescriptions in sufficient supply, as pharmacies outside major towns are limited. Travel insurance with medical evacuation cover is strongly recommended, given the remoteness of some areas. A torch or headlamp is useful in areas with limited electricity, and a small power bank ensures devices stay charged.
Packing with both practicality and cultural respect in mind will make your journey smoother, safer, and more rewarding.
Travelling through the Highlands of Papua New Guinea is an extraordinary opportunity, but it comes with responsibility. Visitors are not just passing through landscapes; they are entering communities with their own protocols, traditions, and values. Approaching travel with sensitivity ensures that your presence is positive and that the benefits of tourism are shared fairly.
Photography is one of the most sensitive aspects of cultural travel in the Highlands. While festivals such as Goroka or Mount Hagen may encourage photography, daily life in villages is different. Never assume it is acceptable to raise your camera. Always seek permission first, ideally through your local guide. In some communities, photographing elders, sacred sites, or ceremonies is strictly forbidden. Respecting a refusal is essential. When permission is given, take the time to show your subject the photo on your screen; this simple gesture helps build trust and creates a sense of exchange rather than extraction.
Gift-giving plays a significant role in highland hospitality. While travellers should avoid handing out items directly to children or individuals, contributions offered through a guide or community leader are welcomed. Practical gifts such as school supplies, gardening tools, or household items are appreciated. Monetary contributions are best arranged discreetly, ensuring they support community needs rather than creating expectations. Avoid sweets, plastics, or items that create waste. When in doubt, ask your guide what is most appropriate.
Highland communities are conservative by nature. Dressing modestly is an important sign of respect. For women, long skirts or trousers with covered shoulders are best. For men, neat clothing that avoids flashy or overly revealing styles is appreciated. Bright festival attire and traditional dress worn by locals is part of cultural expression, but travellers should not attempt to imitate it. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, as paths can be muddy and uneven.
The Highlands are home to hundreds of languages, with Tok Pisin widely used as a lingua franca. English is spoken in towns but less common in villages. Learning a few Tok Pisin phrases goes a long way in showing respect. Simple greetings such as “moning” (good morning) or “tenkyu” (thank you) are often met with smiles. When language barriers exist, your guide is essential for ensuring clear and respectful communication. Non-verbal gestures, patience, and attentive listening are just as important.
How do you balance the desire for an unforgettable trip with the responsibility of leaving a positive footprint behind?
Responsible tourism is about ensuring your visit has a lasting positive impact. Choosing accommodation that is community-owned, purchasing crafts directly from artisans, and using local guides are all ways to keep your spending within the region. When you pay fair prices for goods and services, you contribute directly to community livelihoods. Be wary of bargaining too aggressively; a small saving for you may represent a significant loss for a family.
The Highlands are rich in biodiversity, but ecosystems are fragile. Travellers should carry reusable water bottles, avoid single-use plastics, and pack out their waste wherever possible. Stick to established paths when trekking to minimise erosion, and be mindful of the impact of firewood collection in villages. Respect wildlife by observing without disturbing, especially birds of paradise, which hold cultural and ecological significance.
Perhaps the most important step in travelling responsibly is choosing the right operator. Experienced local guides ensure that cultural protocols are followed, communities are respected, and travellers stay safe. Operators with strong local partnerships help direct the benefits of tourism back to the people who need them most. At Crooked Compass, all tours in the Highlands are designed with these principles in mind, ensuring that your journey is both meaningful and ethical.
The Highlands of Papua New Guinea are one of the most visually captivating regions on earth. From the detailed costumes of sing-sings to the serene rhythm of village life, every angle presents an opportunity for extraordinary images. Yet photographing here is about more than capturing beauty; it requires respect, patience, and an understanding of cultural protocols.
Each province presents unique highlights. In the Southern Highlands, the Huli Wigmen of Tari Basin are known for their striking wigs and painted faces, providing dramatic portrait opportunities when permission is granted. The Western Highlands are dominated by the Mount Hagen Cultural Show, where dozens of tribes gather in full regalia. In the Eastern Highlands, the Goroka Show delivers equally vibrant scenes, while the markets and coffee plantations reveal everyday life. Enga Province offers some of the most traditional experiences, with fewer tourists and more intimate ceremonies that, when approached respectfully, create deeply meaningful photographic moments.
Photography in the Highlands must always be approached with sensitivity. Festivals may be more open to cameras, but daily life is different. Always ask before taking portraits, and follow the advice of your guide. In some communities, certain individuals, ceremonies, or sacred sites may not be photographed at all. Respecting these boundaries is critical. Showing your subjects their image on your camera screen is a simple way to create a sense of exchange.
The Highlands present varied lighting conditions. Morning light is often soft and ideal for portraits, while midday sun at festivals can create harsh shadows. Shooting in open shade or during golden hours brings out the depth of costumes and landscapes. Mist and rain are common, creating atmospheric backdrops but challenging conditions for equipment. Travellers should be prepared for rapidly changing light and weather.
When photographing individuals, take time to connect first. Engage through your guide, show respect for personal space, and avoid staging or directing subjects. Environmental portraits: where people are photographed in their surroundings often tell a richer story than close-ups alone. This approach shows context, such as a Huli Wigman preparing his wig or a coffee farmer tending crops, and avoids reducing people to stereotypes.
At major festivals, such as Goroka and Mount Hagen, opportunities are abundant. Performers are there to be seen, but this does not mean unlimited access. Be patient, ask before stepping close, and avoid blocking others. Long lenses allow you to capture detail without intrusion, while wide shots convey the energy of the crowd. Remember that these gatherings are first for the communities themselves, not for visitors, and behave accordingly.
Highland weather is unpredictable. Sudden rain showers, mud, and dust are part of the experience. A waterproof case or dry bag is essential for your camera, along with lens cloths to wipe away moisture. Spare batteries and memory cards are crucial, as electricity is limited in many rural areas. For treks, a lightweight tripod and a padded camera strap provide stability without adding bulk.
Travelling through Papua New Guinea’s Highlands is not for everyone, and that is exactly what makes it so rewarding. The challenges of remote roads, unpredictable flights, and simple comforts are part of the experience, not barriers to it. For those who choose to venture here, the Highlands open a door to some of the world’s most authentic cultural encounters.
You will find yourself standing in festival grounds surrounded by tribes adorned in feathers and paint, hiking along mist-covered ridges into villages rarely visited by outsiders, and sitting with families whose traditions have been passed down for centuries. These are not staged performances for tourists but living, breathing cultures that continue to evolve while holding firmly to their roots.
The Highlands invite you to slow down, let go of rigid plans, and embrace the unexpected. Could you accept a delayed flight as an opportunity to share stories with fellow travellers? Would you trade modern conveniences for the rare privilege of witnessing a village ceremony few outsiders have ever seen? Could you embrace the simplicity of a meal made from freshly dug sweet potatoes, knowing it represents generations of tradition and hospitality?
At Crooked Compass, our role is to prepare you, guide you, and ensure that your journey respects the communities who welcome you. We believe that the most meaningful adventures are those where you arrive not as a tourist but as a guest; ready to listen, to learn, and to carry home stories that honour the people who shared them.
The Highlands of Papua New Guinea are not just a destination; they are a reminder of what travel can be when approached with humility and respect. The question is not whether the Highlands are ready for you, but whether you are ready for the Highlands.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
More about out Tour Styles.
Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
More about our Tour Styles.
Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
More about our Tour Styles.
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