It’s Christmas morning – we awaken tangled in our mosquito nets as we push back the vibrant blue shutters on the windows of our wooden stilted hut. The sun is only just piercing the horizon. As our eyes adjust, I wonder what beautiful experiences may greet us this morning in the Isanborei Community – a remote village in central Cambodia. With no electricity and no flowing water, we watch quietly as locals pluck cashew nuts from the lean branches and climb tall grassy hay stacks. Ox’s pull carts with wooden wheels that squeak and clunk on the unsealed roads and naked children run around squealing with glee as small puppies chase the featherless chickens. Surrounded by banana and coconut trees, the aromas of the fruits float on the morning breeze.
We sit patiently as our host cooks breakfast with the village cat weaving between her ankles waiting anxiously to collect anything that may be dropped. Then something quite peculiar happens. Stacks of brand new blue and red plastic chairs, about 100 of them, appear from nowhere and are placed in the centre of the dirt driveway. Two brand new small silver billy like buckets are placed on top. They are still wrapped in plastic. Suddenly the chaos begins.
Voices holler as the neighbours are called in. The husband at our homestay rushes frantically up the wooden stairs and quickly re-emerges in a dress shirt and smart pants. A group of 12 people including small children in school uniforms are ushered towards the sparkly new red and blue plastic chairs and they all gather around looking at them in awe. A young boy whips out a camera and all the neighbours have a group photo taken with the chairs. We sit there grinning, amused by this light-hearted morning entertainment until we are signaled to join in the photo. Confused but happy to join in with the villagers excitement, we participate in the happy snap as we are pushed and jostled between relatives and animals alike and pose with cheesy grins. As quickly as it all happened, it is suddenly all over. The chairs are whisked promptly away back underneath the house and the crowds have dispersed. What just happened? We had no idea but hey, we were living with the locals of a remote village in Cambodia and sharing their Christmas joy with them.
Breakfast consists of fried noodles with onion. Bland, simple, but authentic village food. We are offered some tea but politely decline due our experience the previous day. The glasses are simply ‘washed’ by wiping them out with a serviette. Squashed bugs cling to the inside of them, the tea only as hot as the mild temperature outside.
Following breakfast, we drive along the bumpy unsealed roads, past skinny cows and swaying palms, to the crowded city of Kampong Thom. With time to kill before boarding our bus to Phnom Penh, our driver urges us to go for a wander around this busy township. We come to an odd, sparse concrete building that looks almost prison like. It is draped in saffron and orange sheets and it suddenly dawns on me that these are monks’ robes. We have stumbled into a monastery. As we move closer, monks start to emerge. Cautious and elusive at first, but becoming seemingly more confident, they seem as fascinated with us as we are with them. Most of them linger back, but one has the courage to come over and speak with us. “Hello, very handsome, you married? Show me ring.” He proceeds to take photos of us on his mobile phone before calling over another monk to join us for even more photos. He speaks to us softly but briefly about living and studying here in Kampong Thom before he suddenly says “goodbye” and disappears as quickly as he appeared.
It is now time to make our way to Phnom Penh. After a few hours of terrible driving combined with terrible roads and feeling like being bus sick, we arrive into the bustle of Phnom Penh. It’s big, dirty and crowded. We weave through the chaotic streets and our first stop is the Killing Fields. Lawn with huge craters where mass graves have been uncovered, rooms full of skulls and bones silence us. As we wander slowly and silently, our guide points out the white fragments poking out of the dirt beneath our feet and advises these are actually bones that hadn’t been fully uncovered yet. The rainy season would wash away the dirt and these bones would be collected in a few months’ time. Rags of clothing flapped about in the sodden ground still half buried. Somberly we walk on. We witness some horrific sights of where babies were smashed against trees and mass graves where bodies were found without heads. As we leave, our tour guide has tears rolling down her round face as she shares with us her personal experience of escaping from the Khmer Rouge. She had fled to a refugee camp in Vietnam and continues with her heart wrenching story of loss, survival and hope, explaining through sobs how she ate rats and insects – anything to keep alive. She has never heard from her brother since she fled, still not knowing if he is dead or alive. As she tells us her sad story, a wave of sadness sweeps over me as I think of everyone at home munching away on crackling, Christmas ham and delicious sweets with their loved ones.
Leaving this ghastly and confronting area behind, we continue onto the former S-21 prison. This place churns your stomach. A former primary school until the Khmer Rouge took over; this place was turned into a torture prison. Photos of the innocent victims line the walls, their lifeless blank eyes glaring at you, blood still splattered on the floor in some of the cells. Horrible disturbing images of distorted and mangled bodies filled the eerie cold rooms. There were only 7 survivors of this prison and one of them was here selling his story for $10 a copy. People are walking around in tears, nobody saying a word or making eye contact.
Although fascinating and a part of our history, we couldn’t wait to get out of here – it was too much, almost haunting and too real seeing as all of this suffering and torture happened not that long ago. As we leave the compound we are hassled by beggars with no limbs and one man has half his face ripped off and his eye is missing. You can see straight into his skull.
This evening, our Christmas dinner is much more light-hearted as we dine in a restaurant which recruits street kids and trains them in hospitality. This restaurant is beautiful. The setting was tranquil and quiet, littered with fairy lights, the food absolutely amazing. The sound of water lapping the pools edge is soothing and soft glowing lanterns flicker as we reflect on our emotional day over our Khmer meal.
Served by the teachers and their students, we eat some of the best Khmer food we have eaten in Cambodia. These street kids are amazing, so attentive to their teachers and so eager to learn. Passion and admiration gleam in their eyes. They have been thrown a lifeline and all they want to do is succeed. One student brings out a huge tarantula (still alive) to show the table next to us. He asks if they would like to eat it if he deep fries it, as it crawls across his hands. The young girl at the table screams for him to get it away from her. We smile at his light hearted approach with this terrified customer.
Small children fill the streets running around with Santa hats on their heads as we stroll back to our hotel to call it a night.
Starting our Christmas morning with a family who has nothing but a few chickens and some plastic chairs who are content and extremely happy, to reliving a horrific part of history that is still raw with many of people in Phnom Penh, to ending with an enlightening and delicious meal knowing we are helping keep kids off the street. My heart swells at the perseverance of the human spirit and I think of those at home unwrapping their material gifts oblivious to the experiences and emotions I have shared on my Christmas Day in Cambodia. This truly was a Christmas with a difference.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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