Papua New Guinea contains one of the last large intact tracts of tropical rainforest on the planet. Its isolation from continental landmasses, sustained over millions of years, is the direct reason its biodiversity remains so extraordinary. Around nine percent of the world’s bird species live here, alongside marsupials found nowhere else, within ecosystems that have faced far less degradation than comparable regions in Southeast Asia or South America.
For the wildlife traveller, this is not a destination of famous megafauna and easy sightings. It rewards patience, preparation, and local knowledge. The payoff is proportionate.
Birds of paradise are passerine birds found almost entirely within Papua New Guinea and the nearby Maluku Islands of Indonesia. The family Paradisaeidae evolved in near-total isolation, and that isolation produced something singular: males with plumage of extraordinary complexity, the result of generations of intense female mate selection.
Females choose on the basis of display performance and physical appearance. What follows is a diversity of forms that seems improbable in nature. Cascading flank plumes. Iridescent breast shields. Elongated tail wires. Courtship dances performed on specific branches, at the same trees, generation after generation.
Tari Valley, Southern Highlands This is the premier location. Local guides based in the valley carry precise knowledge of active display trees and the approach routes that avoid flushing the birds. You need to be in position before first light. Accommodation is limited and basic, which is precisely what keeps the experience uncommerced.
Mount Hagen Area, Western Highlands A complementary base to the Southern Highlands circuit. The surrounding forests hold several species, and the area offers more straightforward logistics than Tari.
Varirata National Park Situated around 40 kilometres from Port Moresby, Varirata is the most accessible option for travellers with limited time or those beginning or ending a trip in the capital. The Raggiana bird of paradise is reliably seen here. The park is small, the trails are well-maintained, and sightings are possible without the demanding logistics of the highlands.
Crater Mountain Research Station Remote and not easily reached, but among the most rewarding destinations for serious wildlife travellers. The station sits within a protected area covering some 270,000 hectares of primary forest. Species diversity here is high. Visitor numbers are very low.
Male display activity peaks between May and October, corresponding with the dry season in the highlands, when trails are passable and birds compete most actively for mates. Aim to arrive at the display tree by 6am. Activity is concentrated in the early morning hours and drops away sharply once the day warms.
Birds of paradise feathers have been central to traditional dress and ceremony across PNG’s tribal groups for as long as oral histories record. At sing-sing gatherings, headdresses incorporating Raggiana plumes, Superb bird of paradise breast shields, and other feathers are worn as expressions of identity, status, and ancestral connection. This is an active, living cultural practice. Seeing birds of paradise in the field, and later encountering their feathers in ceremonial context, gives both experiences a dimension they would otherwise lack.
PNG’s wildlife does not present itself. The birds of paradise will not appear unless you know where to stand and when. The same is true of tree kangaroos in highland forest, echidnas moving through leaf litter, and cassowaries on lowland tracks.
A specialist operator with genuine local connections changes what is possible. The difference between a guided wildlife trip built around active display trees and a general tour that happens to pass through a park is the difference between one species glimpsed at distance and a week spent in close proximity to ten.
The Tari Valley in the Southern Highlands is consistently the most productive location. Local guides there carry detailed knowledge of active display trees and provide access that is otherwise very difficult to find independently. Varirata National Park, 40 kilometres from Port Moresby, is a practical alternative for travellers with limited time.
Around 43 species are recorded in Papua New Guinea, making it the global centre of the family. Notable species include the Raggiana, Greater, King, Superb, Magnificent, Blue, and Twelve-Wired birds of paradise.
May to October is peak season. Male display activity is highest during this period, which also corresponds with the dry season in the highlands. Plan to be at the display tree by 6am. Activity is concentrated in the early morning.
PNG supports tree kangaroos, southern cassowaries, spotted cuscus, long-beaked echidnas, and large colonies of flying foxes, among many other species. Highland forests and lowland rainforests each support distinct wildlife communities, so a trip that covers both will yield a wider range of sightings.
Yes. Display tree locations are not marked or publicly documented. Local guides have spent years learning the forest and hold relationships with the communities whose land these trees sit on. Attempting to find display sites independently is unlikely to succeed and, in some areas, inappropriate without community permission.
The Raggiana bird of paradise is the national bird of PNG and appears on the national flag. Males carry distinctive deep crimson flank plumes and engage in communal displays at traditional lek sites.
Papua New Guinea requires careful preparation and travel with an operator who has established local networks. Some regions carry elevated safety considerations, and checking current travel advisories before departure is advisable.
Travelling with a reputable small-group operator who manages logistics, accommodation, and local guide relationships significantly reduces the variables. This is not a destination that rewards improvised, independent travel for most visitors.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
Why travellers love our Signature Tours:
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
Why travellers love our Expedition Cruises:
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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