A frontier once closed to the world now opens to the bold. This new expedition through Western Sahara and Mauritania is a rare opportunity to journey into one of the last true blank spaces on the map, where vast stone plateaus melt into endless dunes and history is written in sand and silence. By day, we traverse remote desert tracks, cross the legendary Erg Amatlich, meet nomadic Reguibat tribes, and explore ancient ksars, prehistoric rock art, and the geological wonder of the Eye of Africa. By night, we retreat to carefully selected, comfortable lodgings and welcoming guesthouses, balancing raw adventure with warmth and ease.
From the Atlantic lagoons of the former Spanish Sahara to the sacred libraries of Chinguetti and the hidden oases of the Adrar Mountains, this is an expedition shaped by a decade of research and deep local connections. It is mild in comfort yet intense in experience, designed for passionate travellers who crave authentic encounters, untamed landscapes, and stories that stretch from prehistoric times to the present day.
Download this tour’s PDF brochure and start your planning offline!
Welcome to Agadir, a town on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean in the southern part of Morocco. You will be met on arrival and transfer to your hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure.
Overnight – Atlas Amadil Beach Hotel or similar
Begin the day exploring Agadir, a city with deep Berber and Phoenician roots that has continuously evolved despite past destruction from earthquakes in 1731 and 1960. Visit Souk El Had, one of Morocco’s largest markets, where over 6,000 merchants offer a diverse selection of local goods and handicrafts.
Depart Agadir in 4×4 vehicles, following a scenic coastal route toward Tiznit before leaving the highway behind. Travel along a rugged stretch of the Atlantic coastline, weaving between cliffs and hidden coves. Stop in Legzira, known for its striking red rock formations and ocean-carved arches, for a traditional seafood lunch in a local fishing village.
Continue to Sidi Ifni, a former Spanish enclave until 1969, where remnants of its Hispano-Moresque architecture still dominate the landscape. Settle into your accommodation and take in the town’s unique blend of Moroccan and colonial influences before an evening at leisure. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Safa Hotel or similar
Begin your day in Guelmim, a historic caravan terminal that once thrived at the crossroads of trans-Saharan trade. Explore the medina, where ancient glass beads and goods from centuries of commerce still surface. If your journey aligns with market day, experience the vibrant livestock souk—a striking scene of colour, sound, and tradition. Nomadic shepherds, draped in flowing djellabas with indigo-dyed turbans, arrive from deep in the desert, some travelling from as far as Mauritania.
Venture off-road towards Ksar Tifnidilt, a remote hilltop fort overlooking the dry riverbed of the Ouadi Draa. This river once marked the boundary between French Morocco and Spanish Sahara, and the abandoned military outpost of Tifnidilt still looms over the landscape, a relic of colonial-era defences. The setting is cinematic, reminiscent of an old French Foreign Legion film, where time stands still.
As the day winds down, arrive at your accommodation, your base for the next two nights, where the vast desert unfolds at your doorstep. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Ksar Tafnidilt Hotel or similar
The Dra Estuary sits between sheer cliffs and the vast Atlantic. Along this rugged coastline, discover remote seasonal fishing camps—simple shelters perched on the cliffs or tucked into caves, where fishermen cast their lines into the endless blue.
Scattered throughout the landscape, abandoned colonial military posts stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their weathered facades blending into the dunes. Camels traverse the sandy expanse, a timeless scene against the ever-shifting horizon.
If the tide permits, travel along an untouched beach, a wild frontier where the rolling dunes meet the crashing waves. Veer inland, following the winding course of a dried riverbed through a vast canyon—the only passage between the desert, cliffs, and sea. As the sun sets, return to your hotel. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Ksar Tafnidilt Hotel or similar
Departing Tafnidilt this morning, traverse a striking expanse of dunes before entering the lands known as Western Sahara – a region long off-limits due to the conflict between the Front Polisario and Morocco.
Journey onwards to Naila Salt Lagoon, an otherworldly landscape where golden dunes stretch towards the Atlantic. This vast saltwater lake, spanning 100 square kilometres, is Morocco’s largest and a sanctuary for migratory birds. Up to 20,000 species find refuge here, including flamingos, cormorants, gulls, and herons. Glide across the emerald waters, flanked by ochre cliffs and endless sands, as local fishermen navigate the lagoon in traditional wooden boats. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Sahara Beach Hotel a Akhfenir or similar
This morning, journey through the rugged landscapes of the Seguia el Hamra before arriving in Smara, a town steeped in history and Saharawi resistance. Founded in 1898 by Sheikh Maa el Ainin, a revered religious and political leader from Oualata, Mauritania, Smara was built with the support of the Sultan of Morocco. Before its construction, the site served as a key caravanserai along trade routes to Mauritania. With funding, architects, and materials sent by the Sultan, Smara quickly became a major centre for nomads and traders linking the Maghreb with sub-Saharan Africa. In 1908, Sheikh Maa el Ainin declared Smara a holy town and called for jihad against French and Spanish colonisation. Unlike other towns in the region, established by Spanish settlers, Smara stands as the only Saharawi-founded city—an epicentre of resistance that has endured centuries of conflict.
Over the years, Smara has been the site of numerous battles, including attacks by French camel battalions in 1913 and the Spanish Foreign Legion in 1934. In 1973, the Polisario Front was founded here, further cementing Smara’s role in the ongoing struggle for Saharawi identity. Throughout its history, the town remained under the influence of Sheikh Maa el Ainin, whose political-religious leadership extended across vast Saharan territories, from southern Morocco to Mauritania, northern Mali, and southwestern Algeria. It is said he forged alliances with over 100 tribes through marriage, solidifying his influence across the desert.
Today, Smara is a small but lively town, home to a well-stocked market and remnants of its storied past, including the Hispano-Moresque colonial military quarters and the Zawiya Palace, built by Maa el Ainin from stone, featuring intricate white plaster bas-relief ceilings.
This evening, immerse yourself in Saharawi culture as you experience a traditional feast, accompanied by the rhythmic beats of women’s drumming—an authentic expression of the region’s enduring spirit. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Hotel Sahariano or similar
In Smara, meet up with your local guide—a nomad from a Sahrawi tribe—who will lead you on a true off-road desert expedition, navigating the vast and untamed landscapes of the former Western Sahara from north to south.
Over the next four days, traverse shifting dunes and remote desert tracks, encountering wells where the legendary Reguibat nomads bring their camels to drink. With a bit of luck, you may have the rare opportunity to meet these nomads, whose way of life has remained unchanged for generations. Explore an area rich in ancient petroglyphs, only recently uncovered and still under archaeological study—an extraordinary glimpse into the deep history of the Sahara.
For the next three nights, camp beneath the vast desert sky in spacious Moorish tents, complete with mattresses and carpets for comfort. Dinners will be prepared over the fire, blending fresh and preserved ingredients, as you embrace the raw beauty of the desert in one of the most isolated regions on earth. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Camping in Morish Tents (Bedding is airbeds on Moroccan mats)
Continue your journey towards the Atlantic, navigating ever-changing desert terrain before arriving in Dakhla. This remote peninsula is a place of striking natural beauty, where the Sahara meets the sea.
The Rio de Oro, a 40-kilometre-long inlet, carves through the landscape, framed by rugged cliffs and sweeping dunes. Here, the elements blend into a surreal palette—deep blue ocean, golden sands, emerald seaweed fields, and dark volcanic rock. A place of contrast and tranquillity, Dakhla is a fitting gateway to the final stretch of your desert expedition. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Hotel Buena Vista or similar
Begin the day driving along the Atlantic shoreline where waves lap against sweeping sand dunes. This stretch of coast reveals one of the region’s most unusual natural phenomena. During high tide, the ocean advances across the desert flats, transforming rocks and dunes into temporary islands and creating a shifting landscape shaped by wind and water.
Continue to Dakhla, founded in 1502 by Spanish navigators as Villa Cisneros. Today, this small coastal town balances fishing traditions with a growing international reputation. Visit the colourful fishing harbour, where wooden boats line the waterfront and the rhythm of daily maritime life unfolds.
Lunch will be served at a local oyster farm, with alternative meal options available.
Thanks to its unique position between the Atlantic Ocean and the protected lagoon, Dakhla is now recognised as one of the world’s leading kitesurfing destinations.
Return to your hotel for dinner and overnight. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Hotel Buena Vista – Ocean View Room or similar
Travel south along the only open road that traces the dramatic meeting point between desert and ocean. The route follows a striking escarpment where Atlantic waves meet wind-sculpted sands. Along the way, a roadside marker indicates your position on the Tropic of Cancer.
Continue to the Moroccan military post at Guerguerat, the southernmost border crossing and the only open land corridor linking the Maghreb with sub-Saharan Africa. After exit formalities, proceed carefully through a short stretch of no-man’s land, where the frontier is little more than a theoretical line dividing sand from sand.
Complete entry procedures at the Mauritanian border post before continuing south to Nouadhibou.
Arrive in the evening and transfer to your hotel. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Hotel El Medina – Standard Room or similar
Depart Nouadhibou and travel inland toward the mining town of Akjoujt, where the paved road gradually gives way to desert tracks. Beyond Akjoujt, leave established routes behind and enter an off-road landscape of high dunes and open horizons.
To navigate the deep sand, tyre pressure will be reduced and traditional land navigation techniques employed, supported by GPS, maps, and compass. The terrain shifts between vast dune corridors and untouched geological formations.
Cross the Erg Amatlich dune basin, considered one of the most striking in Mauritania. The immensity of the Sahara here creates a profound sense of isolation. Along the way, discover traces of ancient human presence, including stone tools and pottery fragments scattered across the desert floor.
Occasional patches of grazing land reveal nomadic encampments, offering brief but meaningful encounters after the silence of the dunes.
By late afternoon, enter the Adrar massif, where valleys, escarpments, yellow sand seas, and dark volcanic rock peaks create a varied and dramatic landscape. Continue toward Chinguetti, arriving in the evening. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Sahara Hotel – Air-Conditioned Room or similar
Explore Chinguetti, one of the historic caravan towns of the Sahara and an important centre of Islamic scholarship. Walk through narrow sandy streets lined with stone and adobe structures that have endured for centuries.
Visit one of the traditional manuscript libraries that preserve ancient religious and scientific texts, reflecting the town’s intellectual legacy. The surrounding desert gradually presses against the old quarter, reinforcing the fragile balance between settlement and shifting sand.
Venture into the surrounding Adrar region, where remote oases and small adobe villages are set between cliffs and dunes. Date palms cluster around natural springs, sustaining life in an otherwise arid environment.
Return to Chinguetti in the afternoon. (B,L,D)
Overnight – La Gueila – Standard Room or similar
Spend the day exploring Chinguetti, long regarded as the jewel of Mauritania’s oases. Founded in the 13th century, this stone-built citadel once stood at the crossroads of major trans-Saharan caravan routes linking the Mediterranean world with sub-Saharan Africa.
Walk through the old quarter, where dry-stone houses, narrow sandy lanes, and fortified façades reflect centuries of adaptation to desert life. Visit one of the historic manuscript libraries, including the renowned Ould Habott collection, the largest private collection in Mauritania. These preserved medieval texts testify to Chinguetti’s role as a centre of scholarship and religious learning.
Continue through the palm groves of the oasis, where irrigated gardens form vivid green enclaves against chains of yellow dunes. The advancing sands press constantly against the western edge of town, a visible reminder of the ongoing struggle between settlement and desert.
Visit the main mosque and its iconic stone minaret, believed to be the second oldest continuously operating minaret in the Muslim world. Its simple square tower remains one of Mauritania’s most recognisable architectural symbols.
Return to your guesthouse in the late afternoon.(B,L,D)
Overnight – La Gueila – Standard Room or similar
Depart Chinguetti and follow a remote off-road route tracing the course of a dry ouadi. The journey leads across high dunes and through isolated pockets of vegetation where small hidden oases sustain life in the desert.
Arrive in Ouadane, one of the most remote settlements in Mauritania. Founded in 1147, the town once flourished as a key trans-Saharan caravan centre. Its stone houses, built along a rocky hillside, overlook vast desert plains. Although much of the old town now lies in ruins, parts remain inhabited, preserving a living link to its trading past.
In 1487, during the height of caravan commerce, the Portuguese established a fortified trading post in the region, marking the town’s strategic importance in Saharan trade networks.
Explore the atmospheric remains of the old ksar before returning to Chinguetti in the late afternoon.
Dinner and overnight at your guesthouse. (B,L,D)
Overnight – La Gueila – Standard Room or similar
Leave the main track and travel into a landscape of dramatic mountains, gorges, and canyons. Vast open spaces unfold beneath an expansive blue sky, the terrain shifting between ochre rock and pale sand.
At the horizon stand the ruins of Fort Saganne, constructed as a film set for the movie of the same name starring Gérard Depardieu and Catherine Deneuve.
Continue to the Agrour site at the top of the Amogjar Pass, where prehistoric rock art is hidden among the cliffs.
After a brief visit to the Atar market, proceed to Terjit, one of Mauritania’s most verdant oases. Walk through dense palm groves sheltered within a gorge, following a small stream that leads to a natural rock shelter where fresh spring water flows. The cool shade and greenery contrast sharply with the surrounding desert.
Transfer to your hotel for dinner and overnight. (B,L,D)
Overnight – Hotel Sahara – Air-Conditioned Room or similar
Travel from the desert toward the Atlantic coast, crossing the transitional landscapes that link the Sahara with sub-Saharan Africa.
In Nouakchott, visit the National Museum, which presents Mauritania’s history and culture through archaeological artefacts, traditional costumes, textiles, and exhibits spanning from prehistory to modern times. Displays include photographs from excavations at Aoudaghost, a major trading centre of the ancient Ghana Empire. From the 6th century onward, gold caravans departed Aoudaghost for North Africa, passing through towns such as Ouadane and Assa encountered during your Saharan journey.
Lunch will be served at a restaurant managed by women from Ivory Coast, offering an introduction to West African cuisine.
Continue to the Nouakchott fishing harbour, where hundreds of brightly painted pirogues line the beach. Fishermen, many from Senegal, bring in the daily catch amid wind and waves. Mauritania’s fishing industry processes more than 1.8 million tonnes of fish annually.
A day-use room will be available until 18:00.
Transfer to the airport for departure. (B,L)
Overnight – Day Use Room – Nouakchott Hotel or similar
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**Please note that this tour can be organised on request for private departures.
* Pricing is subject to change at anytime until full payment has been received.
* A minimum of 2 adults is required to guarantee this departure.
A non-refundable deposit of 30% per person is required to secure your place. Final payment is due no later than 60 days prior to departure. Travel insurance is mandatory for travelling with Crooked Compass. For full terms and conditions, please click here.
Small group tours providing intimate connections to gain a deeper understanding and emotional connection to the community, tribes, cultures and lands explored.
Exploring the world’s most remote reaches and challenging destinations requires a high level of expertise which can only be learned from first-hand experience. We know because we go.
In an ever-changing global landscape of rules, regulations and restrictions, rest-assured you are being looked after by those in the know. Given the remote regions that we explore, our passengers safety is our top priority.
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This category of tours involves light trekking, walking, cycling, rafting or kayaking for a few hours each day with a small amount of inclines and declines. You will require a reasonable level of fitness and good health to participate. It is important to note that due to the nature of some of our trips, they may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and can involve long travelling days on various modes of transport.
Suggested preparation : At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake aerobic exercise (this may include jogging, cycling or fast walking) for 30 minutes, three times a week. It is also advised to walk on variable terrain and in variable weather conditions. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week is recommended and for adventures which involve paddling and kayaking, it is important to gain confidence and rhythm rather than speed prior to departure.
This category of tours involve trekking, kayaking and cycling for period of 6 to 8 hours a day at a fairly consistent pace. Ideal for people looking to slightly increase the heart rate. For our moderately rated tours, you must have a good level of fitness and also be in good health. It is also important to be prepared for variable weather conditions. Altitude may also come into play. This category of tours may involve visiting remote areas where facilities can be quite basic. Accommodation may also involve camping, homestays or basic accommodation where facilities may not be considered of western standards. To enjoy this style of travel, it is suggested for travellers to have a reasonable level of fitness and health, a positive attitude, as well as a fairly active lifestyle. An open mind is also required.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 months prior to departure, it is recommended that you undertake 45mins – 1 hour of aerobic exercise, three to four times a week. Some potential exercises that could be beneficial include hill walking with a backpack on over variable terrain and weather conditions, as well as running and cycling dependent on the activity you plan on undertaking.
This category of tours involves trekking, kayaking, cycling or other adventure activities in remote areas for up to 8 to 10 hours a day. It is important to note that with the remoteness of some regions comes a variety of other challenges such as variable weather conditions, accommodation as well as facilities. You must have an excellent level of fitness and good health to be able to partake in this category of tour. You must have confidence in your own ability and be in good physical condition. Includes extended periods of endurance.
Suggested preparation: At least 3 to 4 months of strenuous exercise, four times a week. When preparing for treks it would be beneficial to participate in hill walks with a weighted day pack (approximately 5-8 kg) once a week for aerobic fitness and strengthening of leg muscles. It is also important to do this on variable terrain to prepare for challenging adventures. When preparing for cycling adventures, regular bike riding (at least 4 to 5 times a week for 1-4 hours is essential). It is also important to cycle on uneven surfaces or even participate in other aerobic exercises such as running or swimming to build up strength and stamina. Altitude may also be a factor in these tours.
This category of tour often involves extreme trekking, cycling or other extreme adventure activities. It is important to expect remote and poorly defined tracks and to be prepared for variable weather conditions for 10 to 12 hours per day (may sometimes be more depending on weather and altitude). These adventures are suitable for travellers who have prior experience in strenuous travel and activities, are extremely fit and have excellent health. It is also important to note that some of the terrain on these adventures will involve trekking in snow, at high attitude levels and may require technical equipment.
Suggested preparation: It is important to note that physical fitness should be an ongoing activity, commencing around 5-6 months prior to departure, or even before if you have no prior fitness. Exercise should focus on building maximum endurance and stamina. Four to five hard sessions of 40-60 mins per week should be completed and can include exercises such as going to the gym, running, swimming or cycling to focus on building aerobic stamina. It could also be beneficial to prepare by hiking on rough terrain, in extreme weather conditions or partake in altitude training.
Our Signature Tours are the cornerstone of the Crooked Compass journey: meticulously designed small-group itineraries that balance authenticity, comfort, and ease. These are destinations where travel can be complex—from navigating evolving logistics to reaching places far from the usual tourist path—yet our expertise ensures your experience feels smooth, effortless, and deeply rewarding.
From the moment you arrive, every detail is handled with care. You’re welcomed personally on arrival and met for a private transfer to your accommodation, where you’ll join the rest of your group. Your guide will walk you through an orientation, helping you understand the rhythm of the journey ahead and settling you in with clear, practical insights from the very start.
Accommodation is selected for both comfort and character, reflecting the richness of its locality through thoughtful design, creative ingenuity, and a genuine sense of place. Whether it’s a boutique property, a sustainable lodge or a homestay, each choice is made to connect you meaningfully with the destination.
Cultural integration sits at the heart of our approach. Every itinerary is crafted with respect for local communities, aligning sensitively with their values and protecting the authenticity of their culture. Through this, travellers experience a deeper connection —stories shared firsthand, traditions encountered in their true context, and moments that shift perspectives long after returning home.
With a maximum of 12 travellers and our most trusted local partners, you explore with confidence, guided by teams who combine deep regional knowledge with an intuitive understanding of Western traveller expectations. Through the powerful medium of storytelling, our journeys inspire personal reflection and spark genuine emotion, turning travel into something transformative.
For travellers seeking even more flexibility or personalisation, our Tours By Design journeys are crafted with the same care — mindfully designed around your interests for a more tailored experience.
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Our Founders Tours are rare, one-of-a-kind journeys personally hosted by Crooked Compass founder, Lisa Pagotto. Designed for the traveller who seeks more than just adventure, these exclusive small-group expeditions uncover places few have ever seen – experiences not featured in our regular collection, chosen for their depth, beauty, and story.
Each itinerary is hand-crafted by Lisa to offer meaningful connection and unique access built through years of trust and collaboration with local communities. Travelling alongside her gives you an unparalleled perspective into the world of ethical exploration – from the behind-the-scenes partnerships that shape our journeys, to the human stories that inspire them.
With an intimate group size and seamless support from our expert team, a Founders Tour is less a trip, and more a masterclass in discovery.
Why travellers love Founders Tours:
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Set sail on a rare journey across remote islands, wild coastlines, and untouched ecosystems aboard a small, luxury expedition vessel. Travelling by sea unlocks access to places few travellers ever reach – from isolated villages and pristine reefs to dramatic landscapes that can’t be accessed by land – while each evening, you return to the comfort of your beautifully appointed cabin.
These voyages blend adventure with refinement. Expert-led excursions bring you face-to-face with raw nature and vibrant cultures, while exceptional onboard dining, service, and comfort allow time to unwind and reflect.
To complete your experience, Crooked Compass can seamlessly craft pre- or post-cruise land extensions, ensuring your journey flows effortlessly from sea to shore.
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Our Tours by Design experiences are private journeys curated exclusively for you by the Crooked Compass team. Whether you’re drawn to one of our existing itineraries, wish to adapt a small-group tour for private travel, or want to design something entirely new, we’ll craft a journey that reflects your pace, passions, and sense of discovery.
Why pay for inclusions that don’t fit? With Tours by Design, every detail is intentional – from the destinations and experiences to your style of travel and choice of accommodation. Each itinerary is hand-built through our deep local partnerships and expertise, ensuring authenticity, comfort, and connection in every moment.
Why travellers love Tours by Design:
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Our Partner Tours are carefully chosen group journeys operated by our long-standing, in-country partners — experts who share our values of authenticity, cultural respect, and meaningful connection. These departures, averaging between 17 and 22 travellers, are designed and delivered by our partners, while Crooked Compass manages your booking and provides full support from start to finish.
Enjoy the reassurance of booking through an Australian-based company, delivering our same personalised service and attention to detail you expect from Crooked Compass. We take care of the logistics, so you can focus on what matters most – the journey itself.
Why travellers love our Partner Tours:
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