Founder’s Tour – Behind the Iron Veil: The Restricted Route

Step into the living history of Almaty, a city where empire, revolution, and ideology have each left their indelible mark. Founded in 1854 as the fortress of Verny under Tsar Alexander II, the city evolved from military outpost to cultural hub. In 1929, it became Alma-Ata, the capital of the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic, and for nearly seven decades it stood as the beating heart of Soviet Kazakhstan.

Your walking tour begins in the historic centre of Almaty, where the city’s transformation from Tsarist frontier town to Soviet capital is etched into its streetscapes. Early 20th-century wooden masterpieces by architect Andrei Zenkov, such as the Ascension Cathedral built entirely without nails and surviving two devastating earthquakes, stand in stark contrast to the monumental Soviet architecture that followed.

Continue to the Museum of Folk Instruments, housed in another of Zenkov’s creations, where echoes of ancient Kazakh musical traditions resonate in a city once reshaped by Soviet cultural policies. At the Green Bazaar, discover the legacy of collectivised trade and market control, while sampling Almaty’s famed Aport apples, a symbol of the city’s abundance during the Soviet era. Nearby, the Kyzyl-Tan Trading House recalls the days when goods arrived from Moscow, Kiev, and beyond, linking Soviet Almaty to the broader socialist economy.

Step inside the Kolpakovskiy College-Museum, one of the city’s first educational institutions, where Kazakh, Russian, and Arabic were once taught side by side. Wander past the French Consulate building, later seized by the Soviet authorities and repurposed as the headquarters of the Revolutionary Military Tribunal, before becoming a wartime medical college.

From the late Soviet period, pause at the Hotel Otrar, a symbol of 1980s modernist design and once one of the most prestigious hotels in Soviet Kazakhstan, welcoming foreign delegations and dignitaries.

Conclude your journey with an immersive experience at the Arasan Banya, the grand Soviet bathhouse opened in 1982 to embody collective wellness and state ideals of health. Beneath marble halls and Islamic domes, experience the enduring rituals of Soviet public life, an inspiring finale that fuses architecture, ideology, and lived tradition. (B,L)

Overnight Dostyk Hotel or similar

After breakfast, begin the tour in the historical centre of Almaty at the Golden Square, where most of the architectural landmarks date from 1930 to 1957. This area reflects the city’s role as the capital of the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic and the showcase of socialist ambition.

At the Old Square, one of the first and most historic squares of Almaty, recall the parades and military exercises that once animated this public space. Here, Soviet monumental style is represented in the government headquarters building that now houses the Kazakh-British University.

Visit the Abai Opera and Ballet Theatre, built in 1939 by architects Prostakov and Orazymbetov. The façade is adorned with scenes from Kazakh epic poetry and the national ornament known as Oyu-Ornek, a decorative style traditionally used in yurts and carpets but repurposed in Soviet-era civic buildings to blend local culture with socialist architecture.

Walk through the residential quarters known as Stalinki, constructed between 1947 and 1955. These imposing buildings display symbols of Socialist Realism such as the hammer and sickle, blended with Kazakh ornamentation. Continue to the Academy of Sciences, built between 1948 and 1957 by renowned architect A. Shusev, a three-time Stalin Prize laureate. Its design fuses Kazakh decorative motifs with Soviet emblems including stars, wheatears, and the hammer and sickle. Within its grounds are four museums: archaeology, history of science, rare books, and nature. During the Second World War, prominent Soviet scholars such as Lev Gumilev and Vladimir Vernadsky worked here, anchoring Kazakhstan firmly in the intellectual network of the USSR.

After lunch, explore the district known as the Cultural Trio. Begin with the metro station named after writer M. Auezov, where Kazakh traditions are depicted on the walls, and emerge to see the Auezov Theatre, constructed in 1980 by Soviet architects Baimursayev, Kainarbayev, and Zhaksylykov. Across the square stands the Almaty Circus, built in 1972 and designed by V. Kazev and I. Slonov, echoing the optimism of Soviet modernism. Continue to the A. Kasteyev Art Museum, opened in 1976 and named after the Soviet Kazakh artist famed for his portraits of Kazakh life. Its structure reflects late Soviet architectural standards of the time.

Conclude with a visit to the Central Historical Museum, which houses the nation’s priceless cultural treasures, followed by Republic Square with its Monument of Independence, framed by monumental reliefs of Kazakh history. End the day at Coffee Shop Nedelka, where you can reflect on how Soviet-built spaces have been adapted to new enterprises in a modern independent Kazakhstan. (B,L)

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Fly to Kyzylorda and travel overland to the restricted city of Baikonur, a city still under Russian administration and hidden behind decades of secrecy. Today will be a flexible day due to the rocket launch timings often being shifted. (B,L)

Overnight local guesthouse or similar

After clearing security at Checkpoint 1 (KPP1), enter this Cold War relic where Yuri Gagarin’s journey to space began. Delve deeper into Baikonur’s space legacy with a guided tour of the Baikonur Cosmodrome – one of the most historically significant spaceports in the world. Over approximately five hours, gain exclusive access to key sites within this restricted facility. Visit Gagarin’s Pavilion and monuments to the fallen engineers who paid the ultimate price in the race to space. Baikonur is not just a city, it is a time capsule of Soviet ambition, frozen in ideology and aerospace history.

Visit the Assembly and Refuelling Facility housing full-scale mock-ups of the Soviet-era Burya and Buran spacecraft, precursors to modern space shuttle design. Continue to the Dynamic Test Stand used for the Energia heavy-lift launch vehicle, a rare example of Cold War-era engineering. Stand on the grounds of Gagarin’s Launch Pad, the site of the world’s first human spaceflight in 1961. Descend into the original underground Command Centre, which directed manned launches for over five decades. Today is the scheduled date for a cargo rocket launch. Witness this an unforgettable Soviet-era technological spectacle and live launch. (B,L,D)

NOTE: **While we’ve built in a three-day buffer on either side of the planned launch date to allow for possible delays, it’s important to understand that rocket launches remain unpredictable. Factors such as weather, technical readiness or decisions from the relevant space authorities can all affect timing. The launch could be altered or cancelled at anytime without notice.**

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Travel to the once-thriving port town of Aral, now a stark reminder of one of the world’s greatest environmental disasters. Once located on the shores of the Aral Sea, the city now lies far inland, following decades of Soviet-era water diversion projects that drastically reduced the sea’s size.

Explore the city’s remnants of maritime life, including rusting fishing vessels marooned in the sand and abandoned harbour infrastructure. Visit the local museum for a deeper understanding of the ecological and human cost of the Aral Sea’s decline, and how local communities continue to adapt.

This sobering yet insightful visit offers a unique perspective on the intersection of human industry and environmental impact in Central Asia. The remains are raw, confronting, and unforgettable. (B,L,D)

Overnight Aral Hotel or similar

Depart Aral and journey towards Zhalanash village, where your route transitions onto the former seabed of the Aral Sea. Travel approximately 50km across this surreal salt-streaked landscape – now dry, cracked, and littered with the remnants of a once-thriving marine ecosystem.

Continue to the Karasandyk Hills, marking the former coastline and the eastern edge of the Ustyurt Plateau. Here, wind-sculpted rock formations and sheer cliffs offer striking views over the vanished sea. Along the shoreline of the North Aral Sea, visit the rusting remains of the region’s last ships – only fragments remain, half-buried in sand.

Stop at a natural thermal spring where the water reaches +62°C. There’s an option to bathe, surrounded by desert silence and salt-scrub vegetation.

Explore the abandoned village of Aqespe, once a bustling fishing hub. As the sea receded, shifting sand dunes gradually engulfed the settlement, forcing residents to relocate. Walk through the partially buried streets and skeletal remains of buildings – a stark testament to ecological collapse.

Throughout the day, traverse terrain marked by salt plains, camel herds, scattered wild shrubs, and seashells embedded in the desert floor. This haunting landscape offers a confronting yet fascinating perspective on one of the world’s most significant manmade environmental disasters.

Return to Aral in the evening. (B,L,D)

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Depart Aral by train and journey southeast across the Kazakh steppe toward the ancient city of Turkestan. Once a key hub along the Silk Road, Turkestan remains a centre of spiritual and historical significance in Central Asia.

Turkestan is a city of profound historical and cultural significance. It’s renowned for its role as a prominent Silk Road hub, where traders, scholars, and travellers once converged. The city boasts architectural gems like the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a UNESCO World Heritage site, showcasing stunning Timurid-era design. Turkestan is a pilgrimage destination for Muslims, honouring the revered Sufi poet Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. You will be drawn to its grand bazaars, ornate mosques, and vibrant festivals. Today, Turkestan remains a captivating blend of ancient heritage and modern life, preserving its rich history as it embraces the future.

Arrive in the evening and stretch your legs with an introductory city walk. As dusk settles, explore the city’s illuminated streets and get your first glimpse of its storied Islamic architecture and enduring cultural presence. (B,L,D)

Overnight Karavan Saray Hotel or similar

This morning you will visit Khodja Akhmed Yassui mausoleum. Continuing on, visit Sauran Settlement which is a journey back in time to a once-prosperous Silk Road city. Explore ancient ruins that reveal its trading legacy, architectural marvels, and cultural heritage.

Visit Arystan Bab Mausoleum, which is a revered religious and pilgrimage site. It is dedicated to the memory of Arystan Baba, a Sufi saint and spiritual leader who lived in the 12th century. You will also visit the ancient city of Otrar, an ancient Silk Road city in Kazakhstan, Once razed by Genghis Khan, Otrar rose again to become a vital regional hub – later targeted by Soviet archaeologists seeking to tie nomadic pasts to modern socialist futures. (B,L,D)

Overnight Karavan Saray Hotel or similar

Drive south to Shymkent, one of Kazakhstan’s most dynamic cities and a key crossroad of nomadic and settled cultures.

On arrival, visit the private ethnographic museum created by local craftsman Kendybai. Entirely built and curated by hand, the museum offers a rare personal perspective on Kazakh heritage. Its collection includes over ten reconstructed traditional musical instruments, hand-formed clay vessels, and everyday artefacts, each reflecting centuries-old craftsmanship and customs including over ten musical instruments and domestic tools once banned or dismissed under Soviet policy.

A section of the museum extends underground, representing a hilvet – a traditional subterranean mosque used for spiritual retreat. A quiet, minimal space preserved in defiance of the regime’s religious suppression. (B,L,D)

Overnight Kainar Hotel or similar

This morning you will fly to Astana. Step back in time and discover the rich Soviet history of Astana with a captivating journey through the remnants of its socialist past. This immersive tour offers a unique blend of historical exploration and artistic appreciation.

Wander through historic neighbourhoods that reveal the city’s transformation from its Soviet roots to its modern identity. Admire Soviet-era mosaics, murals, and sculptures that tell powerful stories of resilience, ideology, and culture.

Hear fascinating tales of life in the Soviet Union from an expert guide, including the significance of the art and architecture you’ll see. Visit lesser-known sites that offer a glimpse into Astana’s past, far from the typical tourist routes. (B,L,D)

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After breakfast, travel west of Astana to the ALZHIR Memorial Museum, located on the former site of the Akmola Camp for Wives of Traitors of the Motherland. Opened in 2007, the museum documents the stories of more than 18,000 women from 62 nationalities imprisoned here between 1938 and the 1950s during Stalin’s purges. Exhibits and preserved structures offer a sobering insight into the brutal machinery of Soviet repression and the personal tragedies endured within.

Return to Astana in the evening for time to refresh before heading out for a farewell dinner at a local restaurant. (B,L,D)

Overnight St Regis or similar

This morning is yours at leisure until it is time to transfer to the airport for your onward flight. (B)